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244 common problems

Find the right pro for any home problem

Not sure who to call? Find your household problem below and we'll tell you which professional to contact.

INTERACTIVE DIAGNOSTIC

Tell us the symptom — get the right pro.

Answer one or two quick questions. We'll point you to the problem page, the typical fix, and the trade to call.

Step 1 of 3

What area of your home is the problem in?

How the Who-to-Call hub works

Symptom-first home repair help

When something goes wrong in your home, the first challenge is often figuring out who to call. Should a leaking ceiling be reported to a plumber or a roofer? Is a buzzing outlet an electrician's job or something more urgent? Our "Who to Call" hub uses a symptom-based approach: you describe what you see, hear, or smell, and we match your problem to the right trade professional — no guesswork required.

Research shows that roughly 40 % of homeowners call the wrong trade professional first, resulting in unnecessary service calls that cost between $150 and $300 before the real expert even arrives. That wasted money adds up quickly, especially when the underlying issue is time-sensitive, like a gas leak or a tripping breaker. Our diagnostic system eliminates that costly first mistake by mapping over 60 common household problems across 10 trade categories.

Each problem page explains the likely cause, lists visible symptoms, recommends the correct professional, and provides a cost range so you know what to expect. For a faster, guided experience, try the interactive diagnostic tool above — answer a few simple questions and get a personalized recommendation in under a minute. The diagnostic walks you through a decision tree: pick the area of your home, describe the symptom, and receive a direct link to the matching problem page with trade recommendations and estimated costs. Browse the full problem library below or start the diagnostic now.

BEFORE YOU CALL

When to call a pro vs. try it yourself

Anything involving gas, high-voltage electrical, structural work, or water under pressure is almost always worth a licensed pro — DIY mistakes here are expensive and dangerous. Loose cabinet doors, squeaky floors, minor paint touch-ups, and clogged gutters are usually safe to tackle yourself if you have the tools and the time.

READY FOR THE CALL

What to have on hand when you book

  1. 1

    Photos or a short video of the problem — exactly where it is and what it's doing.

  2. 2

    The age and model of any affected appliance, panel, or fixture, if you know it.

  3. 3

    A sense of urgency: is it a safety risk, actively worsening, or cosmetic?

  4. 4

    Your ZIP code and two or three time windows that work for a visit.

Browse by trade

Browse home problems by trade

01/20

Plumber

48 common problems

Find a plumber near you
  1. 01

    Leaking pipe

    A leaking pipe can cause water damage to walls, floors, and ceilings if left unchecked. Even a small drip wastes water and raises your utility bill. A licensed plumber can locate the leak, assess the damage, and repair or replace the affected section.

  2. 02

    Clogged drain

    A clogged drain causes water to back up in sinks, tubs, or showers, making daily routines frustrating. Persistent clogs can indicate a deeper blockage in the main line. A drain-cleaning specialist can clear the obstruction and inspect the line to prevent future issues.

  3. 03

    No hot water

    Losing hot water is uncomfortable and can point to a failing water heater, a broken thermostat, or a sediment buildup in the tank. A plumber who specializes in water heaters can diagnose the cause and restore your hot water quickly.

  4. 04

    Running toilet

    A running toilet wastes hundreds of gallons of water per day and keeps refilling long after you flush. The culprit is usually a worn flapper valve, a faulty fill valve, or an incorrect float level. A plumber can fix it quickly and stop the waste.

  5. 05

    Dripping faucet

    A dripping faucet is more than an annoyance — it can waste thousands of gallons a year and signal worn-out washers, O-rings, or cartridge seals. A plumber can replace the internal components and stop the drip for good.

  6. 06

    Frozen pipes

    Frozen pipes occur when water inside supply lines freezes during cold weather, blocking water flow and potentially causing the pipe to burst. A burst pipe can release gallons of water per minute, leading to catastrophic flooding and structural damage. Call an emergency plumber immediately to safely thaw the pipes and inspect for cracks before restoring water flow.

  7. 07

    Low water pressure

    Low water pressure makes it difficult to shower, wash dishes, or run appliances efficiently. The cause can range from mineral buildup in pipes to a failing pressure regulator or a hidden leak in the supply line. A professional plumber can diagnose the root cause, clean or replace affected components, and restore normal water pressure throughout your home.

  8. 08

    Toilet won't flush

    A toilet that refuses to flush properly is both inconvenient and unsanitary, often pointing to a worn flapper, broken chain, or clog deep in the drain line. Repeated failed flushes can cause sewage backup and water damage to your bathroom floor. A licensed plumber can quickly identify whether the issue is in the tank mechanism or the drain and get your toilet working reliably again.

  9. 09

    Sewer gas smell in house

    A rotten-egg or sulfur smell inside your home usually means sewer gas is escaping through a dried-out trap, cracked drain pipe, or failing wax ring on a toilet. Sewer gas contains methane and hydrogen sulfide, which are unpleasant and potentially hazardous in high concentrations. A licensed plumber can locate the source, restore trap seals, replace damaged components, and ensure your venting system is working properly.

  10. 10

    Discolored or rusty water

    Brown, yellow, or rusty water coming from your taps can indicate corroding pipes, sediment buildup in the water heater, or issues with the municipal supply. While sometimes temporary after utility work, persistent discoloration may signal galvanized pipes deteriorating from the inside — a problem that worsens over time and can affect water quality and pressure. A plumber can diagnose whether the issue is in your home's plumbing or the supply side and recommend repair or repiping.

  11. 11

    Water Heater Leaking

    A water heater leaking from the bottom, top, or pipe connections can quickly cause significant water damage to floors, walls, and belongings. Leaks may stem from a corroded tank, a failing pressure relief valve, or loose fittings. Because water heaters involve high temperatures and potential electrical or gas connections, a licensed plumber should diagnose and repair the issue promptly.

  12. 12

    Sewer backup

    A sewer backup pushes wastewater back into your home through drains, toilets, or basement floor drains. It poses serious health risks from bacteria and can cause extensive water damage. A licensed plumber can locate the blockage, clear the main sewer line, and recommend preventive measures like backflow valves.

  13. 13

    Basement flooding

    Basement flooding can destroy stored belongings, damage flooring and drywall, and create conditions for mold growth within 24–48 hours. Common causes include a failed sump pump, foundation cracks, clogged floor drains, or heavy rain overwhelming exterior drainage. A licensed plumber can identify the water source, clear drains, repair or install a sump pump, and recommend waterproofing solutions to prevent future flooding.

  14. 14

    Noisy pipes or water hammer

    Banging, clanking, or rattling pipes — often called water hammer — happen when water flow is suddenly stopped and the momentum creates a shockwave in the plumbing. This can loosen joints, damage valves, and eventually cause leaks. Other pipe noises include whistling from partially closed valves or humming from high water pressure. A plumber can install water hammer arrestors, secure loose pipes, adjust pressure regulators, and replace worn valves to eliminate the noise.

  15. 15

    Garbage disposal jammed or not working

    A jammed garbage disposal hums but doesn't spin, or it stops responding entirely. Common causes include hard objects like bones or fruit pits wedging the impeller plate, grease buildup caking the grinding chamber, or a tripped internal reset button. If the unit hums loudly without grinding, it's mechanically stuck. If it's completely silent, check the reset button on the bottom and the circuit breaker. A plumber can unjam the disposal, replace worn splash guards or impeller plates, and recommend whether a repair or full replacement makes more financial sense — most disposals last 8–15 years.

  16. 16

    Water softener not working

    A malfunctioning water softener leaves hard-water minerals in your supply, causing limescale buildup on fixtures, spotty dishes, stiff laundry, and reduced appliance lifespan. Common causes include a depleted or bridged salt tank, a stuck brine valve, a failed resin bed, or incorrect timer settings preventing regeneration cycles. A licensed plumber can diagnose whether the issue is mechanical, electrical, or related to water chemistry and restore proper softening.

  17. 17

    Hot water runs out quickly

    If your hot water runs out faster than it used to — cutting showers short or leaving you with lukewarm dishwater — the problem is usually inside the water heater. Common culprits include heavy sediment buildup that reduces tank capacity, a failing lower heating element (electric heaters), a broken dip tube that mixes cold water into the hot supply, or a unit that's simply too small for your household's demand. A licensed plumber can diagnose the cause, flush the tank, replace components, or recommend a properly sized replacement.

  18. 18

    Dishwasher not draining

    Standing water at the bottom of a dishwasher after a cycle points to a clogged drain hose, a blocked air gap, or a faulty drain pump. Food debris, grease buildup, and kinked hoses are the most common culprits. A plumber can diagnose whether the issue is in the appliance connection or the kitchen drain line and restore proper drainage.

  19. 19

    Toilet constantly running

    A toilet that never stops running is more than an annoyance — it can waste 200 gallons of water per day and add hundreds of dollars to your utility bill each quarter. The most common cause is a worn-out flapper valve that no longer seals tightly against the flush valve seat, allowing water to trickle continuously from the tank into the bowl. Other frequent culprits include a faulty fill valve that does not shut off at the correct water level, a waterlogged float that sits too low or too high, or a corroded overflow tube. In older toilets the flush handle linkage can also stretch or tangle, holding the flapper partially open. A licensed plumber can diagnose the exact component at fault, replace the flapper, fill valve, or entire flush assembly, and verify that the tank refills to the manufacturer-recommended line without cycling. Addressing the issue promptly prevents wasted water, avoids potential mold growth from constant condensation on the tank, and restores quiet operation to your bathroom.

  20. 20

    Septic tank backing up

    A septic tank backup occurs when the underground tank that collects and treats household wastewater becomes full, clogged, or overwhelmed, causing sewage to reverse flow into the home through drains and toilets. This is both a health hazard and a property emergency. Causes include infrequent pumping (most tanks need pumping every 3–5 years), excessive water use overwhelming the drain field, flushing non-biodegradable items, tree root intrusion into pipes, or a failing drain field that can no longer absorb effluent. Warning signs often appear gradually — slow drains throughout the house, sewage odors in the yard near the tank, and soggy patches of unusually green grass over the drain field. A licensed plumber or septic specialist can pump the tank ($300–$600), inspect the system with a camera ($200–$500), clear root intrusions, and assess whether the drain field needs repair or replacement ($3,000–$15,000 for a new field).

  21. 21

    Sump pump not working

    A failed sump pump can turn a dry basement into a flooded disaster within hours during heavy rain, potentially causing thousands of dollars in water damage to flooring, drywall, furniture, and stored belongings. The most common causes are a tripped breaker or power outage (the pump runs on electricity and has no backup), a stuck or jammed float switch that prevents the pump from activating, a burned-out motor from age or overwork, or a clogged discharge line that prevents water from exiting. Homeowners often discover the failure only after water has already accumulated several inches deep. Replacing a standard sump pump costs $300–$800 for the unit plus $200–$400 for professional installation, while adding a battery backup system ($200–$600) provides critical protection during power outages. Annual testing — pouring a bucket of water into the pit to confirm the pump activates — is the single best preventive measure.

  22. 22

    Kitchen sink leaking underneath

    Water pooling inside the cabinet beneath a kitchen sink is one of the most common plumbing problems in any home, and because it is hidden behind cabinet doors, it often goes unnoticed until mold, warped wood, or a musty smell gives it away. The leak can originate from several points: worn-out compression fittings or corroded shut-off valves on the hot and cold supply lines, loose slip-nut connections on the P-trap or tailpiece, a failed gasket between the sink basin and the drain flange, or cracked seals around a garbage disposal unit. Even a slow drip — just a few drops per minute — can saturate the cabinet floor, delaminate particleboard, and create an ideal environment for mold growth within days. A plumber can typically diagnose and repair the leak in under an hour ($150–$300 for a service call), with parts rarely exceeding $30–$50. Replacing corroded supply lines with braided stainless-steel hoses ($10–$20 each) during the repair is a smart preventive upgrade.

  23. 23

    Shower head leaking or dripping

    A shower head that drips constantly even when the faucet is turned off is more than an annoyance — it wastes a surprising amount of water (a drip per second adds up to over 3,000 gallons per year) and creates persistent moisture that encourages mold growth, mineral staining, and grout deterioration in the shower enclosure. The most common cause is a worn-out rubber washer or O-ring inside the shower valve that no longer creates a watertight seal when the handle is in the off position. In single-handle cartridge valves, the cartridge itself may be scored or calcified. Mineral buildup (calcium and lime deposits) inside the shower head body or at the threaded connection to the shower arm can also cause water to seep past the seal. A plumber can usually fix the problem in 30–60 minutes by replacing the valve washer, O-ring, or cartridge ($150–$250 for a service call including parts). Homeowners comfortable with basic tools can often replace a washer themselves for under $5 in parts, but cartridge replacement in a wall-mounted valve is best left to a professional to avoid damaging the valve body or in-wall plumbing.

  24. 24

    Water heater making noise

    Popping, rumbling, or banging sounds from your water heater usually mean sediment has built up at the bottom of the tank and is being superheated. Left unchecked, sediment buildup reduces efficiency, increases energy bills, and can accelerate tank corrosion. A plumber can flush the tank, inspect the anode rod, and recommend whether repair or replacement is needed.

  25. 25

    Slow draining sink

    A sink that drains slowly is more than an annoyance — it usually signals a partial blockage in the drain line from grease, soap scum, hair, or mineral deposits. If ignored, partial clogs become full backups. A drain-cleaning specialist can clear the blockage with a snake or hydro-jetting and check for deeper pipe issues.

  26. 26

    Water main break

    A water main break outside or under your home can cause sudden loss of water pressure, soggy patches in the yard, or even flooding in crawl spaces and basements. Because the main line connects your home to the municipal supply, repairs typically require excavation and a licensed plumber familiar with local codes and utility coordination.

  27. 27

    Garbage disposal leaking

    A leaking garbage disposal can drip from the top flange, side connections, or the bottom of the unit. Top leaks usually indicate a failing putty seal between the disposal and the sink. Side leaks point to loose hose connections at the dishwasher inlet or drain pipe. Bottom leaks mean the internal seals have worn out and the unit likely needs replacement. Left unaddressed, the constant moisture promotes mold, warps the cabinet floor, and can damage electrical connections. A licensed plumber can diagnose the leak location, reseal or tighten connections, and replace the unit if internal seals have failed.

  28. 28

    Tree roots in sewer line

    Tree roots naturally seek moisture and can infiltrate sewer lines through tiny cracks or joints. Once inside, roots expand rapidly, trapping debris and creating blockages that worsen over time. Early signs include slow drains throughout the house and gurgling toilets. If left untreated, roots can collapse the pipe entirely, requiring expensive excavation. A plumber can run a camera inspection to locate root intrusion, clear the line with a mechanical auger or hydro-jetting, and recommend repair options ranging from chemical root treatments to trenchless pipe relining.

  29. 29

    Leaking washing machine

    A leaking washing machine can damage flooring, subfloor, and nearby walls in a single cycle. Leaks often originate from worn supply hoses, a cracked drain hose, a failed door boot seal (front-loaders), or an overflowing standpipe. Even a small drip during each wash accumulates moisture that promotes mold under the machine and warps laminate or hardwood flooring. A plumber can diagnose the source — whether it's the plumbing connections, the standpipe, or a backflow issue — and repair or replace the affected components. If the leak is internal to the machine (pump, tub seal), the plumber can advise whether a repair or replacement makes more financial sense.

  30. 30

    Outdoor faucet dripping

    An outdoor faucet (hose bib) that drips wastes hundreds of gallons per month and can cause serious damage. In warm months the water pools near the foundation, promoting erosion and basement moisture. In cold months even a slow drip can freeze and burst the pipe inside the wall — one of the most expensive plumbing failures a homeowner can face. Common causes include a worn washer, corroded valve seat, failed packing nut, or a frost-proof sillcock that wasn't fully closed. A plumber can replace the internal components in under an hour or upgrade the entire hose bib to a modern frost-proof model for long-term protection.

  31. 31

    Gas smell in the house

    A natural-gas or rotten-egg smell indoors is a potential emergency. Natural gas is odorless by itself — utilities add mercaptan so leaks are detectable. Even a faint whiff can indicate a cracked gas line, a faulty appliance connection, or a failing gas valve. Leave the house immediately without flipping switches or lighting flames, call your gas utility's emergency line from outside, and then contact a licensed plumber or HVAC technician for the repair.

  32. 32

    Slow bathtub drain

    A bathtub that drains sluggishly — leaving inches of standing water after a shower — is almost always caused by a hair-and-soap clog in the drain assembly or P-trap. Over months, hair wraps around the stopper mechanism and binds with soap scum into a dense plug. A simple drain snake or zip-strip tool clears most tub clogs in minutes. If the slow drain persists after clearing the trap, the blockage may be deeper in the branch line or main drain, requiring professional hydro-jetting. A licensed plumber can also inspect for pipe scale buildup or improper venting that causes slow drainage.

  33. 33

    Toilet leaking at the base

    Water pooling around the base of a toilet usually means the wax ring seal between the toilet and the floor flange has failed. Every flush pushes a small amount of wastewater past the broken seal and onto the floor, creating a sanitation hazard and potential subfloor damage. Left unrepaired, the moisture rots the plywood subfloor and can even compromise floor joists. A licensed plumber will pull the toilet, inspect the flange, replace the wax ring (or upgrade to a rubber gasket), and re-set the toilet — typically a one-hour repair costing $150–$350.

  34. 34

    Garbage disposal humming but not spinning

    When a garbage disposal hums but doesn't spin, the impeller is almost always jammed by a piece of food, bone, fruit pit, or stray utensil. The motor is still receiving power but can't turn the flywheel, and if you leave it humming for more than a few seconds it will trip the internal overload protector. First, turn it off at the wall switch. Most disposals have a hex socket on the bottom — insert a 1/4-inch Allen wrench and rock it back and forth to free the jam. Then press the red reset button on the underside. If it spins freely afterward and the obstruction is gone, you're done. If it still hums, the motor bearings may be seized or the start capacitor has failed — both usually mean replacement is more cost-effective than repair. A plumber will replace a standard 1/2 HP unit for $200–$450 including labor. Never put your hand inside the disposal, even when it's off.

  35. 35

    Low water pressure in shower only

    When water pressure drops in only one shower while the rest of the house has normal pressure, the problem is almost always isolated to that fixture rather than the home's main supply. The most common culprit is a clogged showerhead — mineral deposits from hard water build up in the small spray holes and on the internal flow restrictor. Unscrew the showerhead and soak it overnight in white vinegar, then scrub the holes with an old toothbrush. If pressure improves but is still weak, the flow restrictor inside (a small plastic disc) may need cleaning or replacing. The next suspect is the shower valve cartridge — these contain small ports that clog with sediment, especially after city water main repairs that stir up debris. Cartridge replacement is a 30-minute job for a plumber and runs $150–$350 including parts. Single-handle thermostatic valves have additional check valves and filters that may need cleaning. If multiple fixtures lose pressure simultaneously, the issue is the main pressure regulator and you need a plumber to test and replace it.

  36. 36

    Slab leak (water leak under foundation)

    A slab leak is a water or sewer line break beneath your home's concrete foundation. Because the pipe is buried under several inches of concrete and soil, the leak is invisible until secondary symptoms appear: unexplained spikes in the water bill, warm spots on the floor (hot-water line leak), the sound of running water when all fixtures are off, damp carpet or warped flooring over the slab, cracks in walls or baseboards from foundation movement, or mold and mildew smell with no visible source. Left unchecked, a slab leak erodes the soil supporting the foundation, causing differential settlement that cracks walls, jams doors, and can make the home structurally unsafe. Detection requires specialized equipment — electronic amplification, tracer gas, or infrared thermography — which is why DIY detection is rarely successful. Repair options range from spot repair ($500–$2,000, breaking through the slab to fix one section) to rerouting the line through the attic or walls ($2,000–$6,000, bypassing the slab entirely) to full epoxy pipe lining ($4,000–$15,000, coating the interior of existing pipes without excavation). A licensed plumber experienced in slab leak detection and repair is essential — general handymen should not attempt this work.

  37. 37

    Dishwasher leaking water

    A leaking dishwasher can damage kitchen flooring, cabinets, and the subfloor beneath them before you notice the problem. Water may pool under the unit, seep forward onto the floor during cycles, or drip from the door seal. Common causes include a worn or cracked door gasket, a loose or damaged supply line connection, a faulty inlet valve, a cracked pump housing, or a clogged drain hose that forces water backward. If the dishwasher is older than 8–10 years and the tub or pump is cracked, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair. A licensed plumber can diagnose the source, tighten or replace supply and drain connections ($100–$250), replace a door gasket ($50–$150 parts + labor), swap a faulty inlet valve ($150–$300), or advise on replacement. Act fast — even a small dishwasher leak left for weeks can warp the subfloor and encourage mold growth in the enclosed cabinet space.

  38. 38

    Basement wall crack leaking water

    Water seeping through cracks in basement walls is one of the most common — and most ignored — home problems. Hairline cracks in poured concrete walls are normal as concrete cures and the house settles, but once water finds a path, hydrostatic pressure from saturated soil drives it through relentlessly. A damp streak or mineral deposit (white efflorescence) along a crack means water is actively moving through. Small non-structural cracks can be sealed from the interior with epoxy or polyurethane injection ($300–$800 per crack), which fills the crack through the full wall thickness. If multiple cracks are leaking, the exterior drainage system may be failing — clogged or collapsed footer drains, negative grading pushing water toward the foundation, or missing downspout extensions. A waterproofing contractor can install an interior French drain system with sump pump ($3,000–$8,000) or excavate and waterproof from the outside ($5,000–$15,000 per wall). Wide cracks (over ¼ inch), stair-step cracks in block walls, or cracks that are wider at the top than bottom indicate structural movement — these require a structural engineer's assessment before any waterproofing work.

  39. 39

    Toilet rocking or loose at the base

    A toilet that rocks or moves when you sit on it is more than an annoyance — it signals a failing seal between the toilet and the drain pipe, and every rock works the wax ring loose a little more. The wax ring is a thick wax gasket that sits between the toilet horn and the closet flange bolted to the floor; it creates a watertight, gas-tight seal. Once the seal breaks, sewer gas seeps into the bathroom (you'll smell rotten eggs), and dirty water can leak beneath the toilet with every flush, silently soaking the subfloor. Over months, this hidden moisture rots wooden subfloors and can lead to a much more expensive repair. The most common causes are: loose or corroded closet-flange bolts (the simplest fix — just tighten or replace them, $0–$20 in parts), a broken or rusted closet flange that no longer holds the bolts securely ($75–$200 to install a flange repair ring or replace the flange), an uneven floor where the toilet doesn't sit flat (shimming with plastic toilet shims and caulking costs under $30), or a rotted subfloor beneath the flange from a long-term leak ($300–$800 to cut out and replace the damaged section). In every case, the wax ring should be replaced whenever the toilet is pulled — a standard wax ring costs $5–$10, and a premium wax-free gasket runs $15–$30. A licensed plumber can pull the toilet, inspect the flange and subfloor, replace the seal, and reset the toilet in about an hour ($150–$300 for the service call plus parts). Don't delay this repair — the longer a rocking toilet goes unfixed, the greater the risk of subfloor damage, sewer-gas exposure, and a potential sewage leak beneath the floor.

  40. 40

    Refrigerator leaking water on the floor

    A puddle of water under or around your refrigerator usually points to a blocked defrost drain, a cracked water supply line, or a faulty inlet valve — not necessarily a broken fridge. The defrost drain is a small tube at the back of the freezer compartment that channels melt water into a drip pan underneath the unit; when food particles or ice clog it, water backs up and spills onto the floor. A plumber can clear the drain, inspect the water supply line running from the wall valve to the fridge (a common failure point, especially with older ¼-inch copper lines), and replace the inlet valve if it's dripping. Ignoring the leak risks warped flooring, mold under the appliance, and potential water damage to adjacent cabinets. Repair typically costs $100–$250 for a drain clearing or supply line replacement, versus $500–$2,000+ for water-damaged flooring if left unattended.

  41. 41

    Backflow preventer leaking

    A leaking backflow preventer can waste water, cause low pressure, and — if it fails completely — allow contaminated water to flow back into your drinking supply. Most municipalities require annual testing, and a licensed plumber can repair or replace the device to keep your home compliant and safe.

  42. 42

    Water meter running when nothing is on

    If your water meter keeps spinning even when every faucet, toilet, and appliance is off, you likely have a hidden leak. Underground slab leaks, pinhole corrosion in copper lines, or a silently running toilet flapper can waste thousands of gallons a month and cause structural damage before you ever see a puddle. A licensed plumber can perform a pressure test, use electronic leak detection equipment, and pinpoint the exact location without tearing up your home.

  43. 43

    Water bubble forming on the ceiling

    A sagging, paint-bubble on the ceiling that feels soft or squishy is trapped water pooling above the drywall. The source is almost always a plumbing leak, a roof leak, or condensation from HVAC ducts on the floor above. Left alone the bubble will grow, the drywall will collapse, and the water may damage wiring, insulation, and structural framing. A plumber can trace the leak, stop the water source, and coordinate drywall repair to get your ceiling back to normal.

  44. 44

    Toilet making a whistling or whining noise

    A high-pitched whistling, whining, or foghorn-like sound from the toilet tank usually means the fill valve is deteriorating. As the valve's internal seal wears, water forces through a smaller opening, vibrating the mechanism and producing noise. The sound often occurs right after a flush and can last 30 seconds to several minutes. While not an emergency, a worn fill valve wastes water and the noise will worsen over time. A plumber can replace the fill valve in under an hour, restoring quiet operation and saving water.

  45. 45

    Washing machine leaking from the bottom

    Water pooling under your washing machine can damage flooring and subfloor, promote mold growth, and signal a failing pump, hose, or door seal. A plumber or appliance repair technician can pinpoint the source and fix it before it causes water damage to the room below.

  46. 46

    Toilet overflowing

    An overflowing toilet is a plumbing emergency that can cause immediate water damage to floors, subfloors, and ceilings below. The cause is typically a clog in the drain line or a stuck flapper valve that won't stop the fill cycle. Shut off the supply valve behind the toilet immediately, then call a plumber if a plunger doesn't clear the blockage within a few attempts.

  47. 47

    Water heater pilot light out

    A gas water heater that has lost its pilot light will stop producing hot water. Common causes include a faulty thermocouple, a dirty pilot orifice, or a draft blowing out the flame. While relighting the pilot is sometimes a simple DIY fix, repeated outages indicate a component failure that requires a licensed plumber or gas technician.

  48. 48

    Water pressure surges

    Sudden spikes in water pressure can damage pipes, fittings, and appliances like washing machines and dishwashers. You might notice pipes banging, faucets spitting, or the water heater's relief valve dripping. A licensed plumber can test your line pressure, install or adjust a pressure-reducing valve (PRV), and check for a failing expansion tank — the three most common causes of residential pressure surges.

02/20

Electrician

27 common problems

Find an electrician near you
  1. 01

    Flickering lights

    Flickering lights can indicate loose wiring, an overloaded circuit, or a failing light fixture. If multiple lights flicker or the issue persists after replacing the bulb, it may be a wiring problem that poses a fire risk. An electrician should inspect the circuit and connections.

  2. 02

    Tripping circuit breaker

    A circuit breaker that trips repeatedly is a safety mechanism telling you something is wrong — usually an overloaded circuit, a short circuit, or a ground fault. Ignoring it can lead to electrical fires. An electrician can identify the root cause and may recommend a panel upgrade if your home's electrical capacity is insufficient.

  3. 03

    Dead outlet

    An outlet that suddenly stops working may have a tripped GFCI, a loose wire connection, or a damaged receptacle. While sometimes a simple reset fixes it, persistent dead outlets can signal a wiring issue that needs professional attention. An electrician can safely diagnose and repair the connection.

  4. 04

    Outlets sparking

    An outlet that sparks when you plug something in is a serious electrical hazard that can lead to arc faults, melted wiring, or even a house fire. The sparking may indicate loose connections, damaged insulation, or an overloaded circuit behind the wall. A licensed electrician should inspect the outlet and wiring immediately to prevent a dangerous situation from escalating.

  5. 05

    Burning smell from outlet

    A burning smell coming from an electrical outlet is an urgent warning sign that wiring behind the wall may be overheating or arcing. Ignoring this odor risks an electrical fire that can spread rapidly through wall cavities. Turn off the circuit breaker for that outlet and call a licensed electrician right away to inspect the wiring and replace any damaged components.

  6. 06

    Light switch not working

    A light switch that stops working can be caused by a faulty switch mechanism, a loose wire connection, or a deeper issue in the circuit. While it may seem minor, a malfunctioning switch can indicate hidden wiring problems that pose a fire risk. Have a qualified electrician diagnose the issue and replace the switch or repair the wiring safely.

  7. 07

    Bathroom Fan Not Working

    A bathroom exhaust fan that has stopped working, runs but fails to vent air, or makes loud grinding noises is more than a nuisance — it puts your home at risk for moisture buildup and mold growth. The problem may be electrical, a burned-out motor, or a blocked duct. An electrician can safely inspect the wiring and motor to restore proper ventilation.

  8. 08

    Smoke Detector Keeps Beeping

    A smoke detector that keeps chirping or beeping intermittently — even after battery replacement — may signal a wiring fault, a failing sensor, or an expired unit. Because smoke detectors are critical life-safety devices, persistent beeping should not be ignored. An electrician can test the circuit, replace hardwired units, and ensure your home meets current fire-safety codes.

  9. 09

    Electrical Buzzing Sound

    Buzzing, humming, or crackling sounds coming from outlets, switches, or the electrical panel are never normal and may indicate loose wiring, an overloaded circuit, or a failing breaker. These issues pose a serious fire hazard and should be addressed immediately. Turn off the affected circuit if possible and contact a licensed electrician for a thorough inspection.

  10. 10

    Ceiling fan wobbling or making noise

    A wobbling ceiling fan is more than annoying — it can loosen the mounting bracket from the electrical box over time, creating a falling hazard and stressing the wiring connections. Common causes include unbalanced blades (warped, dirty, or misaligned), a loose mounting bracket, a downrod that isn't fully tightened, or an electrical box not rated for fan support. If the wobble developed suddenly, a blade may be cracked or a screw may have backed out. An electrician can diagnose the root cause, re-secure or replace the mounting hardware, balance the blades, and verify the electrical box is fan-rated — critical for safety, as a standard lightweight ceiling box can't support the dynamic load of a spinning fan.

  11. 11

    Outdoor light not working

    A non-functioning outdoor light is both a safety hazard and a security concern — dark walkways increase fall risk, and unlit exteriors invite break-ins. The cause may be as simple as a burned-out bulb or corroded socket, but it can also indicate a tripped GFCI outlet, damaged wiring exposed to weather, a faulty photocell or motion sensor, or a deeper circuit issue. A licensed electrician can troubleshoot safely, replace weather-damaged components, and ensure the fixture meets outdoor-rated code requirements.

  12. 12

    Landscape lighting not working

    When outdoor landscape lights — pathway lights, uplights, spotlights, or deck lights — stop working or flicker inconsistently, the issue is usually a low-voltage wiring problem, a failed transformer, corroded connections, or damaged fixtures. Low-voltage landscape lighting (12V) is safer than line voltage but still requires proper installation to avoid tripped circuits, dim lights, and premature fixture failure. An electrician can trace wiring faults, test the transformer output, replace corroded connectors with waterproof splice kits, and ensure the system is balanced across runs.

  13. 13

    Partial power outage in house

    When some rooms or circuits lose power while the rest of the house stays on, the issue is usually a tripped breaker, a loose connection, or a failed leg of the 240V service entrance. Unlike a full outage caused by the utility, a partial outage is almost always inside your electrical system. An electrician can pinpoint the problem — from a faulty breaker to a damaged service cable — and restore full power safely.

  14. 14

    Flickering outdoor lights

    Outdoor lights that flicker, dim intermittently, or cut out entirely are more than a cosmetic issue — they compromise home security, create tripping hazards on walkways, and can signal dangerous electrical faults. The most frequent cause is corroded wire connections inside weathered junction boxes or fixture housings where moisture has worked past gaskets over time. Other common culprits include loose neutral connections at the breaker panel, overloaded circuits shared with high-draw appliances, photocell sensors failing in dusk-to-dawn fixtures, and voltage drop on long wire runs from the panel to distant yard lights. A licensed electrician can test voltage at each fixture, inspect connections for oxidation and heat damage, verify circuit loading, and replace degraded wiring, connectors, or fixtures. Prompt repair restores reliable illumination for safety and curb appeal while eliminating the risk of arcing that could ignite surrounding materials.

  15. 15

    Electrical panel overheating

    An overheating electrical panel is a serious fire hazard that demands immediate professional attention. Warm or hot panel covers, discolored wiring, or a burning smell near the breaker box indicate loose connections, overloaded circuits, or a failing breaker. A licensed electrician should inspect, diagnose, and repair the panel before a fire or equipment damage occurs.

  16. 16

    Ceiling fan not spinning

    A ceiling fan that hums but doesn't spin, or one that has stopped responding entirely, usually has a burned-out capacitor, a faulty pull-chain switch, or a wiring issue at the canopy. The motor capacitor is the most common failure point — it's a $5–$15 part that stores energy to start and maintain blade rotation. If the fan light works but the blades don't turn, the capacitor or motor winding is almost certainly the culprit. A licensed electrician can diagnose the failure, replace the capacitor or switch in under an hour, and verify the circuit is safe. Full fan replacement runs $150–$400 including labor if the motor itself has failed.

  17. 17

    Warm or hot electrical outlet

    An outlet that feels warm or hot to the touch is a serious electrical safety concern. Common causes include loose wiring connections that create resistance and heat, an overloaded circuit drawing more current than the wiring can safely carry, a failing outlet with worn internal contacts, or backstabbed wire connections (push-in rather than screw terminals) that loosen over time. A warm outlet is a potential fire hazard — the National Fire Protection Association reports that electrical failures cause an estimated 46,700 home fires annually. Stop using the outlet immediately, unplug all devices, and call a licensed electrician. Diagnosis and repair typically costs $100–$300.

  18. 18

    Smoke detector chirping every minute

    A smoke detector that chirps once every 30–60 seconds is signaling a low battery, end-of-life status, or sensor contamination. Replace the battery first — even hardwired detectors have a backup 9V or lithium cell that needs replacement every 6–12 months. If chirping continues with a fresh battery, check the manufacture date printed on the back: smoke detectors expire after 10 years (the radioactive sensor element degrades), and they will chirp continuously when expired. Dust and cobwebs inside the detector also trigger false low-battery chirps — vacuum the unit gently with a brush attachment. If you have multiple hardwired interconnected detectors that all chirp together, the issue is usually one bad unit on the circuit. An electrician charges $75–$200 to replace a hardwired smoke detector, or $300–$600 to replace a full set of 4–6 interconnected units. Never disable a chirping detector by removing the battery — it's a serious fire safety risk.

  19. 19

    Outdoor outlet not working

    An outdoor outlet that suddenly stops working is almost always a tripped GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter). Outdoor outlets are required by code to be GFCI-protected, and moisture, rain splash, a worn weatherproof cover, or a faulty tool or extension cord can trigger a trip. Before calling an electrician, locate the GFCI outlet that controls the circuit — it may be in the garage, bathroom, or on another exterior wall — and press the RESET button. If it trips again immediately or won't reset, the problem is deeper: a damaged outlet, corroded wiring from moisture intrusion, a faulty GFCI device, or a short circuit in the wiring run. A licensed electrician can test the circuit, replace a worn GFCI outlet ($75–$150 installed), upgrade a non-weatherproof outlet box to an in-use cover ($50–$100), or trace and repair damaged wiring ($150–$400). Never ignore a GFCI that won't reset — it's protecting you from a ground fault that could cause electrocution or fire.

  20. 20

    Recessed lights turning off by themselves

    Recessed (can) lights that turn off by themselves and come back on after a few minutes are almost always activating their built-in thermal protection cutoff. Every recessed housing has a thermal switch that kills power when the fixture overheats, preventing a fire in the ceiling cavity. Once it cools, the light comes back on — and the cycle repeats. The most common cause is using a bulb with higher wattage than the fixture is rated for: a 75W or 100W incandescent in a can rated for 60W generates far too much heat. The second cause is insulation contact. Non-IC-rated (insulation contact) housings require a minimum 3-inch clearance from insulation. If blown-in or batt insulation has been piled against or over a non-IC can, heat cannot dissipate and the thermal switch trips. Older non-IC cans installed in the 1980s and 1990s are especially prone to this after attic insulation upgrades. The easiest and safest fix is retrofitting with LED modules or LED bulbs, which produce a fraction of the heat — a 10W LED replaces a 65W incandescent flood. LED retrofit kits that snap into the existing housing cost $15–$40 per light and can be self-installed. If the housing itself is damaged, corroded, or non-IC-rated in an insulated ceiling, an electrician can replace it with a modern IC-rated, airtight housing ($100–$250 per fixture installed). A licensed electrician should also inspect the wiring connections inside the junction box — loose wire nuts or backstabbed connections in the fixture's J-box can arc and cause intermittent shutoffs ($75–$150 per service call). If multiple recessed lights on the same circuit are cycling off, the circuit itself may be overloaded.

  21. 21

    Bathroom exhaust fan making loud noise

    A bathroom exhaust fan that grinds, rattles, or hums loudly has usually reached the end of its motor bearings' life — most bath fans last 8–12 years before the motor wears out. Beyond being annoying, a failing fan no longer moves enough air to prevent moisture buildup, which leads to mold on grout, peeling paint, and even rotted ceiling joists. Replacing a bath fan is an electrical job: it involves disconnecting the old unit from its junction box, possibly resizing the ceiling opening, and wiring the new fan — which may require running a dedicated circuit if you're upgrading to a higher-CFM model with a heater or humidity sensor. A licensed electrician can swap a standard fan in 1–2 hours ($150–$350 for labor plus $50–$200 for the fan). If the ductwork is disconnected or venting into the attic (a code violation that causes attic mold), expect an additional $100–$300 to route the duct properly through the roof or soffit.

  22. 22

    GFCI outlet keeps tripping

    A GFCI (ground-fault circuit interrupter) outlet that trips repeatedly is detecting a current leak — which could be a sign of damaged wiring, moisture in an outlet box, or a faulty appliance. While the device is doing its job protecting you, the underlying cause needs to be found and fixed by a licensed electrician.

  23. 23

    Lights dim when appliances turn on

    If lights flicker or noticeably dim every time a large appliance kicks on — the AC compressor, dryer, microwave, or vacuum — your electrical system is struggling to deliver enough power. This is called voltage drop and usually points to an undersized circuit, a loose connection, or an electrical panel that can't keep up with modern demand. Ignoring it risks overheating wires, tripped breakers, and in severe cases, an electrical fire. A licensed electrician can measure the voltage drop, tighten connections, add a dedicated circuit for the offending appliance, or recommend a panel upgrade.

  24. 24

    Smoke coming from an electrical outlet

    Smoke or a burning smell from an electrical outlet is a fire emergency that demands immediate action. It usually means wiring behind the outlet has overheated due to a loose connection, an overloaded circuit, or damaged insulation. Turn off the breaker that serves the outlet and call a licensed electrician — do not attempt to use or inspect the outlet yourself, as arcing inside the wall can re-ignite even after power is cut.

  25. 25

    Ceiling fan light not working

    When a ceiling fan's light kit stops working while the fan motor still spins, the issue is usually in the pull chain switch, the light kit wiring, or the wall switch/remote receiver. If replacing the bulb doesn't fix it, an electrician can diagnose whether the switch, socket, or wiring has failed.

  26. 26

    Power surge damage

    A power surge — a sudden spike in voltage lasting microseconds to milliseconds — can destroy sensitive electronics, damage appliances, and in severe cases melt wiring insulation or start fires. Common causes include lightning strikes, utility grid switching, and large appliances cycling on and off. A licensed electrician can install whole-house surge protection at the main panel, check grounding, and assess damage to circuits after a surge event.

  27. 27

    EV charger not working or charging slowly

    A home EV charger (Level 2, 240V) that stops working, trips breakers, or charges slower than expected usually points to an electrical issue rather than a charger defect. Common causes: the dedicated 40–50 amp circuit breaker trips due to a loose connection or undersized wiring, the GFCI protection built into the EVSE trips from moisture or a ground fault, the outlet (NEMA 14-50) has loose terminals that overheat, or the charger's internal contactor has failed. Before calling an electrician ($75–$150 service call + $50–$100/hour), check the breaker panel — if the EV circuit breaker has tripped, reset it once. If it trips again within a day, the circuit has a fault that needs professional diagnosis. Slow charging (getting only 15 miles/hour instead of the expected 25–30) often means the charger is throttling due to a voltage drop — the wiring run is too long or the wire gauge is undersized for the distance.

03/20

HVAC Technician

19 common problems

Find an HVAC technician near you
  1. 01

    AC not cooling

    When your air conditioner runs but fails to cool, the problem could be a refrigerant leak, a dirty filter, a frozen evaporator coil, or a malfunctioning compressor. An HVAC technician can diagnose the issue, recharge refrigerant if needed, and restore comfortable temperatures.

  2. 02

    Furnace not heating

    A furnace that won't heat can leave your home uncomfortably cold and even dangerous in winter. Common causes include a faulty igniter, a clogged filter, thermostat issues, or a gas supply problem. An HVAC technician can safely troubleshoot and repair your heating system.

  3. 03

    Strange HVAC noises

    Banging, squealing, rattling, or grinding sounds from your HVAC system often indicate a loose component, a worn belt, a failing motor bearing, or debris in the ductwork. Ignoring unusual noises can lead to costly breakdowns. An HVAC technician can pinpoint and fix the source before it worsens.

  4. 04

    Thermostat not working

    A malfunctioning thermostat can leave your home too hot, too cold, or cause your HVAC system to cycle erratically, driving up energy bills. The problem may stem from dead batteries, faulty wiring, or a failed sensor inside the unit. An HVAC technician can test the thermostat, recalibrate or replace it, and ensure your heating and cooling system responds correctly.

  5. 05

    AC leaking water

    Water dripping from your air conditioning unit usually means the condensate drain line is clogged, the drip pan is cracked, or the evaporator coils are frozen. Left unaddressed, the leak can damage ceilings, walls, and flooring, and promote mold growth. An HVAC professional can clear the drain, repair the pan, and check refrigerant levels to stop the leak and prevent costly water damage.

  6. 06

    Uneven heating or cooling between rooms

    When some rooms are too hot while others are freezing, the problem usually lies in your HVAC ductwork, insulation, or system sizing. Common causes include blocked or leaking ducts, closed or misadjusted dampers, insufficient insulation in certain walls or attic areas, or an HVAC system that's too small for the space. An HVAC technician can perform a duct inspection, check airflow at each register, and recommend solutions like duct sealing, damper adjustment, or adding a zoning system.

  7. 07

    Musty smell from AC vents

    A musty or mildew smell blowing from AC vents usually signals mold or bacteria growing inside the HVAC system — on the evaporator coil, in the drain pan, within ductwork, or on a clogged air filter. Beyond being unpleasant, airborne mold spores can aggravate allergies, asthma, and respiratory conditions. An HVAC technician can inspect the system, clean the evaporator coil and drain pan, treat ductwork, and identify root causes like poor drainage or inadequate dehumidification.

  8. 08

    Condensation on windows

    Persistent condensation, fog, or ice forming on the interior surfaces of windows during cold weather signals excessive indoor humidity. While occasional light condensation is normal, heavy or daily moisture on windows can cause wood frame rot, peeling paint, mold growth on sills and surrounding walls, and even damage to the wall cavity insulation. The root causes are usually inadequate ventilation, an oversized humidifier, bathroom or kitchen fans that aren't ducted outside, or a home that's been sealed too tightly without balanced air exchange. An HVAC technician can measure indoor humidity levels, inspect ventilation systems, and recommend solutions like balanced ventilation, dehumidifiers, or heat recovery ventilators.

  9. 09

    Air conditioner short cycling on and off

    Short cycling is when an air conditioner turns on, runs for only a few minutes (instead of the normal 15–20 minute cycle), shuts off, and then restarts shortly after — repeating this pattern continuously. This puts enormous stress on the compressor, which is the most expensive component to replace ($1,500–$3,000). Each startup draws a surge of electricity, so short cycling can increase energy bills by 20–40%. Common causes include a dirty or clogged air filter restricting airflow, low refrigerant from a leak, an oversized AC unit for the space, a malfunctioning thermostat reading incorrect temperatures, frozen evaporator coils, or an overheating compressor with a failing motor. An HVAC technician can diagnose the root cause, check refrigerant levels, clean evaporator and condenser coils, verify thermostat calibration, and inspect electrical components. Ignoring short cycling dramatically shortens the system's lifespan — a well-maintained AC lasts 15–20 years, but chronic short cycling can cut that to 7–10 years.

  10. 10

    Furnace blowing cold air

    When your furnace runs but only pushes cold or lukewarm air through the vents, the problem usually lies with the pilot light, flame sensor, gas valve, or a clogged air filter that triggers a safety shutdown. A certified HVAC technician can diagnose the root cause and restore heat, often in a single visit.

  11. 11

    AC unit freezing up

    Ice forming on your air conditioner's evaporator coil or refrigerant lines signals restricted airflow or a refrigerant issue. Running a frozen unit can damage the compressor — the most expensive component. An HVAC technician can safely thaw the system, find the cause (dirty filter, low refrigerant, or a failing blower), and prevent repeat freeze-ups.

  12. 12

    Ductwork condensation and sweating

    Sweating ductwork occurs when warm, humid air contacts cold duct surfaces, creating moisture that can drip onto ceilings, insulation, and framing. Left unchecked, duct condensation leads to water stains, mold growth, and damaged insulation. An HVAC technician can insulate ducts, seal leaks, and adjust humidity levels to eliminate the problem.

  13. 13

    AC blowing warm air

    When your air conditioner runs but only blows warm or room-temperature air, the most common culprits are a dirty air filter restricting airflow, low refrigerant from a leak, a frozen evaporator coil, a failed compressor, or an incorrect thermostat setting. A clogged filter is the easiest DIY fix — replace it and wait 3–4 hours for a frozen coil to thaw. If the problem persists, the system likely has a refrigerant leak or a component failure that requires a certified HVAC technician. Refrigerant leaks require EPA-certified handling, and recharging without fixing the leak is both illegal and wasteful. Diagnosis costs $75–$200; common repairs range from $150 (capacitor) to $1,500+ (compressor replacement).

  14. 14

    Leaking or disconnected ductwork

    Leaking ductwork is one of the most under-diagnosed home comfort problems. The average home loses 20–30% of conditioned air through duct leaks, gaps, and poor connections — essentially paying to heat or cool your attic, crawlspace, or walls instead of your living space. Symptoms include rooms that are always too hot or too cold despite the HVAC running, excessive dust throughout the house (ducts pull in attic or crawlspace air through leaks), higher-than-expected energy bills, and the HVAC system running longer cycles to reach the thermostat setting. Common leak points are joints where duct sections connect (especially flex duct to rigid metal), boot connections where ducts meet floor or ceiling registers, return-air plenums, and anywhere duct tape (which dries out and fails within 2–5 years) was used instead of mastic sealant. An HVAC technician can perform a duct blaster test to measure total leakage, then seal joints with mastic or metallic tape and insulate exposed duct runs. Sealing costs $500–$2,000 for a typical home and often reduces energy bills by 15–25%, paying for itself within 1–3 years.

  15. 15

    Carbon monoxide alarm going off

    A carbon monoxide (CO) alarm going off is a life-safety emergency that should never be ignored. Carbon monoxide is an odorless, colorless gas produced by incomplete combustion in furnaces, water heaters, gas stoves, fireplaces, and attached-garage vehicles. At low concentrations it causes headaches, dizziness, and nausea; at high levels it is fatal within minutes. If your CO detector sounds, evacuate everyone — including pets — immediately, call 911 from outside, and do not re-enter until the fire department clears the home. Common sources include a cracked heat exchanger in the furnace, a blocked or disconnected flue pipe, a malfunctioning gas water heater, or backdrafting caused by negative house pressure. After the immediate danger is resolved, an HVAC technician should perform a combustion safety inspection of every gas appliance. A heat-exchanger inspection runs $80–$150; if the exchanger is cracked, replacement costs $600–$1,500 or a full furnace replacement may be recommended ($3,000–$7,000). Flue pipe repair or reconnection typically costs $150–$400. Annual furnace maintenance ($80–$150 per visit) is the best prevention — the technician checks for CO at every burner and verifies proper venting. Install CO detectors on every level and near sleeping areas; replace units every 5–7 years.

  16. 16

    AC refrigerant leak

    An AC refrigerant leak means your system is losing the chemical that absorbs heat, causing it to blow warm air, run constantly, and drive up energy bills. Refrigerant doesn't get 'used up' — if levels are low, there's a leak. Only an EPA-certified HVAC technician can legally locate, repair, and recharge the system.

  17. 17

    AC compressor not starting

    When the outdoor AC unit hums, clicks, or stays completely silent while the indoor fan blows warm air, the compressor likely isn't starting. Common causes include a failed capacitor, a burned-out compressor motor, a tripped high-pressure switch, or low refrigerant levels. The compressor is the most expensive component in the system — running a failing one can cause total unit failure. An HVAC technician can diagnose whether the fix is a $150 capacitor swap or a compressor replacement that may justify upgrading the entire system.

  18. 18

    Basement cold and drafty

    A basement that stays noticeably colder than the rest of the house or has persistent drafts usually points to insulation gaps, air leaks around the rim joist, unsealed foundation cracks, or inadequate HVAC duct coverage. An HVAC technician can assess duct routing and airflow, while a handyman or insulation contractor can seal air leaks and add insulation.

  19. 19

    Ductwork rattling or popping

    Rattling, popping, or booming sounds from HVAC ductwork are usually caused by thin sheet metal expanding and contracting as heated or cooled air passes through. While not always dangerous, the noise can indicate undersized ducts, loose connections, a clogged filter creating excessive pressure, or poor duct support. An HVAC technician can identify the cause, reinforce or resize problem sections, and seal joints to eliminate noise and improve efficiency.

04/20

Roofer

13 common problems

Find a roofer near you
  1. 01

    Roof leak

    A roof leak lets water penetrate your home, leading to mold growth, damaged insulation, and structural rot. Leaks often start small around flashing, vents, or worn shingles and worsen with each storm. A roofer can locate the entry point and perform a lasting repair.

  2. 02

    Missing shingles

    Missing or damaged shingles expose the underlayment and decking to rain, wind, and UV damage. If left unrepaired, the exposed area can quickly develop leaks. A roofer can replace the missing shingles and inspect the surrounding area for hidden damage.

  3. 03

    Clogged gutters

    Clogged gutters prevent water from draining off the roof properly, causing overflow that can damage fascia boards, siding, and the foundation. Debris buildup also adds weight that can pull gutters away from the house. A roofer or gutter specialist can clean, repair, and secure your gutter system.

  4. 04

    Ice dam on roof

    Ice dams form along the roof edge when snow melts from the warm upper roof and refreezes at the cold eaves. The trapped water backs up under shingles, causing leaks into attic spaces, walls, and ceilings. Left untreated, ice dams cause extensive water damage, rotting fascia boards, and mold growth. A roofer can safely remove ice dams, install ice-and-water shield membrane, and improve attic ventilation to prevent recurrence.

  5. 05

    Gutters overflowing in rain

    Gutters that overflow during rain are not directing water away from your foundation, which can lead to basement flooding, soil erosion, and foundation damage over time. The cause may be clogs from leaves and debris, sagging sections, undersized gutters, or damaged downspouts. A gutter specialist can clean, realign, or replace your gutter system to restore proper drainage and protect your home from water damage.

  6. 06

    Leaking roof vent or flashing

    Leaks around roof vents, pipes, or flashing are one of the most common causes of roof leaks. Flashing — the thin metal strips that seal transitions between the roof and chimneys, vents, or walls — deteriorates over time from UV exposure, thermal cycling, and storms. Even a small gap lets water infiltrate into the attic and down through ceilings. A roofer can remove the old flashing, install new step or counter flashing, reseal vent boots, and verify there's no hidden water damage in the decking below.

  7. 07

    Sagging gutter sections

    Gutter sections that sag or pull away from the fascia board no longer channel water properly, causing overflow that erodes landscaping, stains siding, and can lead to foundation damage. Sagging is typically caused by loose or failed hangers, accumulated debris weight, ice damage, or rotted fascia. A roofer or gutter specialist can rehang the sections with properly spaced brackets, replace damaged hangers, repair fascia, and ensure correct slope for drainage.

  8. 08

    Gutter leaking at joints

    Leaks at gutter joints and seams are the most common gutter failure. Sealant degrades over time, and thermal expansion widens gaps between sections. Leaking gutters pour water against the fascia, soffit, and foundation instead of channeling it away, causing rot and basement moisture. A gutter specialist can reseal joints, replace damaged sections, or install seamless gutters to eliminate joints entirely.

  9. 09

    Moss growth on roof

    Moss thrives on north-facing or shaded roof surfaces where moisture lingers. While it looks harmless, moss roots work under shingle edges, lifting them and allowing water to penetrate the underlayment. Over time this leads to wood rot in the decking, leaks, and shortened roof lifespan. Pressure washing can damage shingles, so professional moss removal uses gentle chemical treatments, manual scraping, and zinc or copper strip installation to prevent regrowth. A roofer can assess the extent of damage, safely remove the moss, treat the surface, and recommend ongoing prevention.

  10. 10

    Chimney leaking water

    Water entering around a chimney is one of the most common — and most damaging — roof leak sources. The leak usually originates from deteriorated flashing (the metal strips where the chimney meets the roof), a cracked chimney crown, damaged mortar joints, or a missing chimney cap. Because chimney leaks send water down hidden paths inside walls, the damage can progress for months before stains appear. A roofer handles flashing and roof-side repairs, while a mason addresses the chimney structure itself. Repair costs range from $200–$500 for reflashing to $1,000–$3,000 for crown and mortar rebuilds.

  11. 11

    Skylight leaking water

    A leaking skylight can cause stained ceilings, rotted framing, mold growth, and damaged insulation if not addressed promptly. Not every drip is a true leak — condensation on the interior glass is common in winter when warm, humid indoor air meets the cold skylight surface, and it can look identical to a roof leak. A true leak usually appears during or shortly after rain and is caused by failed flashing around the skylight curb, dried or cracked sealant between the glass and frame, improperly installed step flashing where the skylight meets the shingles, or ice dams forcing water uphill under shingles. A roofer can diagnose the source with a water test. Re-sealing the skylight frame with appropriate roofing sealant costs $150–$400. Replacing deteriorated flashing around the curb — which requires removing surrounding shingles, installing new step and counter flashing, and re-shingling — runs $400–$1,200 depending on skylight size and roof pitch. If the skylight unit itself is cracked, fogged between panes, or over 20 years old, full replacement costs $800–$2,500 including the unit and installation. Deck-mounted skylights are easier to replace than curb-mounted ones. Adding a proper cricket (small diverter ridge) above a skylight on a low-slope section prevents future water pooling ($300–$600).

  12. 12

    Standing water on a flat roof

    If water is still pooling on your flat roof 48 hours after the last rain, you have a ponding problem. Flat roofs are designed with a slight slope to drain, but sagging decking, clogged internal drains, or shifted insulation can create low spots where water sits. Prolonged ponding accelerates membrane deterioration, adds hundreds of pounds of dead load to the structure, and eventually causes leaks. A roofer can identify the cause — whether it's a drainage issue, structural deflection, or membrane failure — and restore proper drainage with tapered insulation, additional drains, or membrane repair.

  13. 13

    Roof sheathing rot

    Roof sheathing (the plywood or OSB boards nailed to the rafters beneath shingles) can rot when moisture becomes trapped — from a slow leak, poor attic ventilation, or ice dams pushing water under shingles. Soft, spongy spots on the roof surface, sagging between rafters visible from the attic, or dark water stains on sheathing boards are all signs of rot. A roofer can assess the extent of damage, replace affected sheathing panels ($70–$100 per sheet plus labor), and address the moisture source to prevent recurrence.

05/20

Carpenter

19 common problems

Find a carpenter near you
  1. 01

    Squeaky floors

    Squeaky floors are caused by loose subflooring, dried-out joists, or nails rubbing against wood. While not always a structural concern, persistent squeaking can indicate that the subfloor is pulling away from the joists. A carpenter can secure the subfloor and eliminate the noise.

  2. 02

    Sagging floor

    A sagging or uneven floor is often a sign of weakened floor joists, foundation settling, or moisture damage to the subfloor structure. Beyond being a tripping hazard, it can indicate serious structural problems that worsen over time. A professional carpenter can assess the underlying support, sister or replace damaged joists, and level the floor to restore safety and stability.

  3. 03

    Deck boards rotting or splintering

    Rotting or splintering deck boards are a tripping hazard and a sign of advancing structural decay. Soft, spongy boards can give way underfoot, and exposed splinters are painful and prone to infection. The underlying joists may also be affected, turning a simple board replacement into a larger structural repair. A carpenter can assess the full extent of the damage, replace compromised boards and joists, and recommend a maintenance plan to extend the deck's lifespan.

  4. 04

    Squeaky or noisy stairs

    Squeaky stairs are annoying and can indicate loosening connections between treads, risers, and stringers. The squeaking occurs when wood components rub against each other or against loose nails and screws. While not usually a structural emergency, the problem worsens over time as movement loosens fasteners further. A carpenter or handyman can identify the source of the squeak — from above or below — and fix it by shimming gaps, reinforcing connections with screws, adding construction adhesive, or replacing worn components.

  5. 05

    Fence leaning or damaged

    A leaning, cracked, or broken fence compromises your property's security, curb appeal, and privacy. Wind, moisture, and age weaken fence posts and panels over time. A carpenter can assess the damage, replace rotted posts, reinforce sagging sections, and rebuild panels to restore your fence to full condition.

  6. 06

    Exterior wood rot

    Soft, crumbling, or discolored wood on exterior trim, window frames, door frames, or siding signals wood rot — a fungal decay that spreads when wood stays moist. Left untreated, rot compromises structural integrity and invites insects like carpenter ants and termites. Small areas can be repaired with epoxy wood filler, but large sections require cutting out the damaged wood and splicing in new material. A carpenter can assess the extent of the damage, determine whether it's cosmetic or structural, and perform lasting repairs with rot-resistant materials.

  7. 07

    Rotting porch steps

    Soft, spongy, or visibly decayed porch steps are a safety hazard and a sign that moisture has been working its way into the wood for months or years. Rot typically starts at the bottom of stringers where they contact the ground, at tread nosings where water pools, and around rusted fasteners. A carpenter can assess whether the damage is limited to treads or extends to the stringers and supporting structure, then repair or rebuild the steps to code.

  8. 08

    Sticking windows hard to open or close

    Windows that are difficult to open, close, or lock smoothly are a common frustration that affects energy efficiency, emergency egress, and daily comfort. In wood-frame homes the most frequent cause is paint buildup on sashes and stops — each repaint adds a thin layer that eventually fuses the sash to the frame. Humidity-driven wood swelling is another major factor, particularly in bathrooms and kitchens where moisture levels fluctuate. Vinyl and aluminum windows can stick when balance springs or block-and-tackle balances wear out, making the sash too heavy to lift easily. Foundation settling can also shift the rough opening out of square, pinching the window frame. A skilled carpenter can diagnose the root cause, plane or sand down swollen wood, break paint seals, replace broken balance springs, adjust weatherstripping, and re-shim the frame if settling is the issue. Restoring smooth operation improves ventilation, ensures the window can be used as an emergency exit, and prevents further damage to hardware and seals.

  9. 09

    Warped or buckled hardwood floor

    Warped or buckled hardwood floors are typically caused by moisture imbalance — either a water leak underneath, high humidity, or improper installation without adequate expansion gaps. Individual boards may cup, crown, or lift away from the subfloor. A carpenter or flooring specialist can assess the moisture source, repair or replace affected boards, and re-sand and refinish the area.

  10. 10

    Wobbly deck railing

    A wobbly deck railing is a serious safety hazard — building codes require railings on decks 30 inches or more above grade to withstand at least 200 pounds of lateral force. Railings loosen over time as wood shrinks, screws back out, post bases rot, or the ledger connection weakens. If you can push a railing and feel movement, the attachment hardware has likely failed. A carpenter can assess whether the posts, balusters, or the entire railing system needs reinforcement or replacement. Catching this early prevents a catastrophic failure that could cause falls and significant liability.

  11. 11

    Ceiling sagging or drooping

    A sagging ceiling is both a cosmetic eyesore and a potential structural warning sign that demands prompt investigation. The causes range from harmless to serious. On the cosmetic end, old plaster-and-lath ceilings sag when the plaster keys break loose from the lath strips due to age and vibration — the plaster is no longer anchored and gravity pulls it down. This can be re-secured with plaster washers and screws ($200–$600 per room) or replaced with drywall ($1,500–$4,000 per room depending on size). On the structural end, water damage is the leading cause: a slow roof leak, burst pipe, or condensation from a poorly insulated attic saturates drywall or plaster until it swells and sags. Termite or carpenter-ant damage to ceiling joists weakens the framing. Overloaded attic insulation — especially blown-in insulation added on top of old batts — can exceed the ceiling's weight capacity. In rare cases, undersized joists or removed load-bearing walls cause structural deflection. A carpenter or contractor should inspect the attic from above to identify the root cause. If the issue is water, the source must be fixed first. Joist sistering (reinforcing) costs $200–$500 per joist; replacing a damaged section of drywall runs $300–$800. If structural repairs are needed, expect $1,000–$5,000 depending on scope. Never ignore a ceiling that is actively bulging or cracking — a sudden collapse can cause serious injury.

  12. 12

    Window frame rotting

    Rotting window frames let moisture, air, and pests into your home while driving up energy costs. Left untreated, rot spreads from the frame into the wall framing behind it, turning a $300–$800 repair into a $2,000+ structural job. A carpenter can assess the extent of damage and either repair the affected wood or replace the frame entirely.

  13. 13

    Gaps in crown molding

    Gaps between crown molding and the ceiling or wall are one of the most visible cosmetic defects in a home. They appear when the house settles, when seasonal humidity changes cause wood to expand and contract, or when the original installation was done poorly. While small gaps can be re-caulked as a DIY fix, recurring or widening gaps often indicate truss uplift, joist movement, or improperly nailed molding that needs a carpenter's expertise to repair correctly and permanently.

  14. 14

    Deck boards warping or cupping

    Deck boards that bow upward (cupping), twist, or warp are typically caused by moisture imbalance — the bottom of the board absorbs ground moisture while the top dries in the sun. Pressure-treated lumber is especially prone to warping in the first 1–2 years as it dries from its initial chemical treatment. Other causes include improper joist spacing (joists should be 16 inches on center, or 12 inches for composite), boards installed without adequate gaps for expansion (1/8–1/4 inch between boards), or fasteners that don't allow the board to move naturally. Mild warping can sometimes be corrected by flipping boards, adding mid-span blocking, or using deck board straighteners. Severe warping requires board replacement — $5–$15 per linear foot for pressure-treated, $10–$30 for composite.

  15. 15

    Fence gate sagging or dragging

    A fence gate that sags, drags on the ground, or won't latch is one of the most common fence complaints. The root cause is almost always structural: the gate post has shifted, the gate frame has racked out of square, or the hinges have loosened from repeated stress. Wood gates are heavy (50–100 lbs for a 6-foot privacy gate) and gravity constantly pulls the latch side downward. Adding a diagonal anti-sag cable or turnbuckle brace ($15–$40 DIY, $75–$200 professional) is the standard fix for a gate that's still structurally sound. If the hinge post has rotted at ground level or shifted from frost heave, the post itself needs replacement — $200–$500 for a single post reset in concrete. Neglecting a sagging gate accelerates wear on hinges and latches and eventually damages the adjacent fence sections.

  16. 16

    Scratched or damaged flooring

    Scratched hardwood, gouged laminate, cracked tile, or torn vinyl — floor damage ranges from cosmetic annoyances to structural issues. Light surface scratches on hardwood can often be buffed out with a screen-and-recoat ($1–$3/sq ft), while deep gouges that reach the wood grain require sanding and refinishing ($3–$8/sq ft). For laminate and LVP, individual damaged planks can usually be replaced without redoing the whole floor ($100–$400 for a few planks). Cracked ceramic or porcelain tiles need replacement of the broken tile ($150–$500 per tile including labor), with the biggest challenge being matching the grout color and tile pattern. Prevention: use felt pads under furniture legs, area rugs in high-traffic zones, and keep pet nails trimmed.

  17. 17

    Creaking or buckling floors

    Creaking floors usually mean the subfloor has separated from the joists — the boards flex when you step on them, rubbing against nails or each other. Common causes include seasonal humidity changes, insufficient fastening during construction, or aged subfloor adhesive. A handyman or carpenter can fix most creaks from above by driving screws through the subfloor into joists ($75–$300), or from below if a basement or crawl space allows access. Buckling — when floors visibly lift, warp, or tent — is more serious and usually caused by moisture: a hidden water leak, flooding, or insufficient expansion gaps during installation. Buckling requires identifying and fixing the moisture source first, then replacing affected sections ($200–$2,000+ depending on extent). Hardwood and laminate are most prone to buckling; LVP handles moisture better but can still buckle from extreme heat or improper installation.

  18. 18

    Windows drafty, foggy, or leaking

    Drafty, foggy, or leaking windows signal failed seals, deteriorated weatherstripping, or frames past their useful life. Single-pane windows and double-pane units over 15–20 years old are the most common culprits. Foggy glass between double-pane panels means the seal has broken and argon gas has escaped — the unit must be replaced, not repaired. Replacing windows ($300–$800 per window installed for vinyl, $800–$1,500+ for wood or fiberglass) typically pays back in energy savings of 10–25% on heating/cooling bills (ENERGY STAR estimates $101–$583 annually for a full-home replacement). Window installation takes 30–60 minutes per unit for a retrofit (insert) install, or 2–4 hours for a full-frame replacement that includes modifying the rough opening.

  19. 19

    Fence leaning or sections falling over

    A leaning fence usually means post failure — either the posts have rotted at ground level (wood fences average 7–15 years before post rot), the concrete footings have cracked and shifted, or soil erosion has undermined the base. Wind loads during storms accelerate the failure. Repair options depend on severity: resetting individual posts in new concrete ($150–$400 per post) works when the rails and pickets are sound. If more than 30% of posts are compromised, full fence replacement ($15–$30/linear foot for wood privacy, $25–$50 for vinyl, $20–$40 for aluminum) is more cost-effective than piecemeal repair. Metal post brackets ($20–$40 each, installed into existing concrete) can rescue posts with minor base rot without digging.

06/20

Handyman

34 common problems

Find a handyman near you
  1. 01

    Stuck door

    A door that sticks, drags, or won't latch properly can be caused by humidity swelling the wood, shifted framing, loose hinges, or a settling foundation. A carpenter or handyman can plane the door, rehang it, or adjust the frame so it operates smoothly again.

  2. 02

    Hole in drywall

    Holes in drywall — from doorknob impacts, accidental damage, or removed fixtures — are unsightly and weaken the wall surface. A handyman can patch small to medium holes with mesh tape and joint compound, or cut in a new section for larger damage, leaving a smooth surface ready for paint.

  3. 03

    Broken door handle

    A broken, loose, or jammed door handle makes it difficult to open, close, or lock a door, compromising both convenience and security. The issue is usually a worn latch mechanism, a misaligned strike plate, or a broken internal spring. A handyman can replace or repair the handle quickly.

  4. 04

    Cabinet door falling off or misaligned

    A cabinet door that hangs crooked, won't close properly, or has fallen off its hinges is usually caused by worn-out hinges, stripped screw holes, or a warped door. In kitchens, this is more than cosmetic — loose doors near hot stovetops or heavy dishes are a safety hazard. A handyman or cabinet specialist can replace hinges, fill and re-drill screw holes, or rehang the door to restore smooth, secure operation.

  5. 05

    Drafty windows letting in cold air

    Drafty windows waste energy and make rooms uncomfortable. The problem can stem from deteriorating weatherstripping, failed window glazing seals (foggy double-pane glass), gaps in the caulking around the frame, or the window sash no longer closing tightly. In many cases, a handyman can replace weatherstripping, re-caulk the frame, and adjust hardware for a fraction of the cost of new windows. For failed insulated glass units or severely damaged frames, a window replacement may be the better long-term option.

  6. 06

    Loose or wobbly railing

    A loose staircase railing, porch railing, or deck railing is a serious safety hazard — especially for children, elderly residents, and guests unfamiliar with your home. Wobbly railings are typically caused by loose mounting hardware, rotted wood posts, or corroded metal brackets. A handyman can tighten, reinforce, or replace railing components to bring them back to code and keep everyone safe.

  7. 07

    Cracked Drywall

    Cracks appearing in drywall or plaster walls can range from minor cosmetic blemishes caused by normal settling to warning signs of structural movement or moisture damage. Cracks that keep returning after patching, spread diagonally from corners of doors or windows, or are accompanied by bulging deserve professional attention. A handyman can assess the cause, repair the surface, and advise whether deeper investigation is needed.

  8. 08

    Garage Door Stuck

    A garage door that won't open, won't close, or gets stuck halfway through its travel can be caused by misaligned tracks, broken springs, a malfunctioning opener, or sensor issues. Because garage door springs are under extreme tension, attempting a DIY repair can be dangerous. A professional handyman can safely diagnose the problem and get your door operating smoothly again.

  9. 09

    Door won't latch or close properly

    A door that won't latch, sticks, or swings open on its own is more than an annoyance — it affects security, energy efficiency, and noise isolation. Causes range from loose hinges and a misaligned strike plate to a warped frame or settling foundation. A handyman can diagnose the root cause, realign the door, adjust hardware, and fix the frame so it latches securely every time.

  10. 10

    Mold growing on walls or ceiling

    Mold on interior walls or ceilings is a health hazard and a sign of excess moisture. Black, green, or white patches may appear near bathrooms, kitchens, basements, or anywhere with poor ventilation. Left unchecked, mold triggers allergies, asthma, and respiratory issues. A handyman or mold remediation specialist can identify the moisture source, remove affected materials, treat surfaces with antimicrobial solutions, and improve ventilation to stop regrowth.

  11. 11

    Sliding closet door off track

    Sliding closet doors — whether bypass, bifold, or pocket style — commonly jump off their tracks. Bypass doors ride on a top or bottom rail and pop out when rollers wear out, the track bends, or the door catches on carpet. Bifold doors pivot on a top pin and bottom bracket; they derail when the top guide breaks, the bottom pivot shifts, or hinge pins strip. Pocket doors slide into the wall and jam when the trolley rollers fail or the track inside the wall warps. A handyman can realign the door, replace worn rollers or guide pins, straighten or replace bent track, and adjust the door height so it clears the floor without dragging.

  12. 12

    Cracked tile floor

    Cracked floor tiles are more than cosmetic — they can indicate subfloor movement, improper installation, or settling. Cracks let moisture seep underneath, which can cause mold growth, adhesive failure, and damage to the subfloor. A single cracked tile is usually repairable, but multiple cracks in a pattern may signal a structural issue that needs assessment. A handyman or flooring specialist can remove the damaged tiles, check the subfloor condition, and install replacements with proper mortar and grout.

  13. 13

    Bathroom caulk deteriorating

    Cracked, peeling, or discolored caulk around bathtubs, showers, sinks, and toilets is more than ugly — it's an open invitation for water to seep behind walls and under floors, causing hidden mold growth, subfloor rot, and costly structural damage. Caulk typically lasts 5–10 years before it dries out, shrinks, and loses its seal. Re-caulking is a straightforward repair: the old caulk must be completely removed, the surfaces cleaned and dried, and new 100% silicone caulk applied in a continuous bead. A handyman can re-caulk an entire bathroom in 1–2 hours.

  14. 14

    Cracks in driveway

    Cracks in a concrete or asphalt driveway are more than cosmetic — water seeps in, freezes, and widens the damage each winter. Small hairline cracks can be sealed as a DIY project, but spreading spider-web patterns, heaving sections, or cracks wider than a quarter-inch signal foundation movement or sub-base failure that needs a professional assessment. A handyman can patch and seal minor damage, while severe cases may need a concrete contractor.

  15. 15

    Clogged dryer vent

    A dryer vent clogged with lint, debris, or crushed ductwork is one of the most overlooked fire hazards in a home. The U.S. Fire Administration reports that dryer fires cause an estimated 2,900 residential fires each year, and failure to clean the vent is the leading cause. When the exhaust path is restricted, moist hot air cannot escape efficiently, forcing the dryer to run longer cycles while the internal temperature climbs to dangerous levels. Lint — which is highly flammable — accumulates inside the duct, at elbows, and at the exterior vent hood where it can ignite. Beyond fire risk, a clogged vent dramatically reduces dryer efficiency, increases energy costs, shortens appliance lifespan, and can push excess humidity into walls, encouraging mold growth. A handyman or vent-cleaning specialist will disconnect the dryer, use a rotary brush and high-powered vacuum to clear the entire duct run from the dryer collar to the exterior termination, inspect the vent hood flap for damage, and verify proper airflow with an anemometer.

  16. 16

    Cracks in foundation wall

    Foundation wall cracks range from harmless hairline settling cracks to serious structural failures that threaten a home's integrity. Vertical hairline cracks (less than 1/8 inch wide) are extremely common and usually result from normal concrete curing and minor settling — these are cosmetic and can be sealed with hydraulic cement or epoxy injection ($200–$500 per crack). Horizontal cracks are far more concerning because they indicate lateral pressure from soil, water, or frost pushing inward against the wall, which can eventually cause bowing or collapse. Stair-step cracks in block or brick foundations follow the mortar joints and often signal differential settling, where one part of the foundation sinks faster than another. Widening cracks (growing over weeks or months) require immediate professional evaluation. A structural engineer ($300–$800 assessment) can determine whether the cracks are cosmetic or structural and recommend appropriate repairs — from simple sealing to carbon fiber reinforcement straps ($500–$1,500 per strap), wall anchors ($800–$1,500 per anchor), or underpinning with helical piers ($1,000–$3,000 per pier). Addressing cracks early prevents water infiltration, mold growth, and escalating repair costs.

  17. 17

    Mailbox post leaning or falling over

    A leaning or fallen mailbox post is one of the most common curb-appeal problems homeowners face, and it affects both appearance and mail delivery — USPS carriers may stop delivering if the box is inaccessible or poses a safety risk. The most frequent cause is the wooden 4×4 post rotting at ground level where moisture and soil contact accelerate decay. Frost heave in cold climates can push the post out of alignment over several freeze-thaw cycles. Impact damage from snowplows, vehicles, or even repeated minor bumps from passing cars is another common culprit. Loose gravel fill instead of concrete footings allows the post to wobble progressively until it leans. A handyman can reset the existing post if it is structurally sound by digging out the old footing, adding fresh gravel for drainage and new concrete, and plumbing the post level. If the wood has rotted below ground, the post needs replacing — a pressure-treated 4×4 set 24–36 inches deep in concrete ($100–$300 for materials and labor) typically lasts 15–20 years. Upgrading to a metal post sleeve or composite post adds durability. The entire job usually takes 1–3 hours.

  18. 18

    Crawl space moisture or standing water

    Excessive moisture or standing water in a crawl space is a hidden problem that affects indoor air quality, structural integrity, and energy efficiency throughout the entire home. Because warm air rises, up to 50% of the air you breathe on the first floor originates from the crawl space — carrying mold spores, musty odors, and humidity with it (the so-called stack effect). Common causes include poor grading that directs rainwater toward the foundation, missing or damaged vapor barriers, clogged foundation vents, plumbing leaks dripping onto the ground below, and high water tables. Persistent moisture rots wooden floor joists and subfloor sheathing, attracts termites and carpenter ants, and can cause hardwood floors above to buckle or cup. A basic vapor barrier installation (6-mil polyethylene over bare dirt) costs $1,500–$4,000 for an average crawl space. Full encapsulation with a 20-mil liner, dehumidifier, and sealed vents runs $5,000–$15,000 but provides the most complete solution. Addressing grading and gutter drainage outside the foundation is equally important to stop water from entering in the first place.

  19. 19

    Loose floor tiles

    Loose floor tiles rock, click, or shift underfoot, creating a tripping hazard and allowing water to seep beneath the surface. Common causes include failed thinset adhesive, a cracked or shifting subfloor, lack of expansion gaps, and moisture damage from below. If water gets under the tile, it can promote mold growth and weaken the subfloor further. Fixing a few loose tiles is straightforward — a handyman can remove the affected tiles, clean and repair the substrate, apply fresh adhesive, and re-grout. If many tiles across the floor are loose, the problem may indicate subfloor movement that needs addressing before re-tiling.

  20. 20

    Cracked vinyl siding

    Cracked vinyl siding exposes the sheathing and wall framing to moisture, insects, and UV degradation. Vinyl becomes brittle in cold weather, so impacts from hail, baseballs, lawn equipment, or even wind-blown debris can crack panels. A single cracked panel may seem cosmetic, but water that enters behind siding travels downward, soaking sheathing and insulation for months before visible damage appears indoors. A handyman can replace individual panels quickly if matching stock is available. If your siding is faded or discontinued, a painting contractor can help with color matching or recommend a section replacement strategy.

  21. 21

    Bathroom tile grout cracking

    Cracking grout between bathroom tiles may look minor, but it's the first line of defense against water penetration. Once grout fails, water seeps behind tiles and into the subfloor or wall cavity, leading to mold, rot, and structural damage that can cost thousands to repair. Shower and tub surrounds are especially vulnerable because they're wet daily. Common causes include normal aging, building settlement, missing expansion joints, incorrect grout type for the application, or cleaning with harsh acids that dissolve grout. A handyman can remove the old grout, treat any mold, and regrout the affected area in a day — a fraction of the cost of tearing out water-damaged walls.

  22. 22

    Window fogging between panes

    Condensation or a milky haze trapped between the two panes of a double- or triple-glazed window means the insulating seal has failed. Once the seal breaks, argon or krypton gas escapes and moisture-laden air enters the gap, reducing the window's insulating value by up to 50%. The foggy appearance worsens with temperature swings and humidity changes. In some cases the glass can be replaced without removing the frame (an IGU swap), but older or specialty windows may require full replacement. A handyman or window specialist can evaluate whether a defogging service, glass-only replacement, or full window swap is the most cost-effective fix.

  23. 23

    Driveway sinking or settling

    When a concrete or asphalt driveway develops uneven sections, sunken slabs, or noticeable dips near the garage, the underlying soil has likely eroded or compacted unevenly. Settling creates trip hazards, pools standing water that accelerates damage, and can redirect runoff toward your foundation. Mild settling (under 1 inch) can often be fixed with mudjacking or polyurethane foam injection — a process that lifts the slab back to grade by pumping material under it through small holes. Severe settling or heaving may require slab removal and re-pouring. A handyman or concrete contractor can assess whether leveling, patching, or replacement is the right call.

  24. 24

    Garage floor cracking

    Cracks in a concrete garage floor are extremely common — nearly every garage slab develops them eventually due to concrete's natural shrinkage as it cures, thermal expansion and contraction, soil settlement beneath the slab, and the weight of vehicles. Hairline cracks (under ⅛ inch) are cosmetic and can be sealed with flexible concrete caulk to prevent moisture infiltration. Wider cracks (¼ inch or more), cracks that are uneven (one side higher than the other), or cracks that grow over time may indicate structural settlement or poor drainage underneath the slab. A handyman can repair cosmetic cracks for $100–$300. Structural issues require a concrete contractor — mudjacking or polyurethane foam injection to level a settled slab runs $500–$1,500, while full slab replacement costs $3,000–$8,000.

  25. 25

    Stuck window won't open

    A window that won't open usually has one of four causes: paint sealing the sash to the frame (common on older painted-shut windows), swollen wood from humidity, a broken sash cord or balance spring on double-hung windows, or hardware corrosion on casement and sliding windows. For paint-sealed windows, score the paint line between sash and frame with a utility knife, then gently tap a putty knife around the perimeter to break the seal. Swollen wood usually frees up when humidity drops — a dehumidifier helps. Broken sash cords on older double-hung windows are a classic handyman fix: the weight inside the wall is no longer counterbalancing the sash, so it falls or sticks. A handyman charges $75–$200 per window for sash cord replacement or hardware lubrication. If multiple windows are sticking after a recent paint job, the painter should return to fix it. Never force a stuck window — you can crack the glass or warp the frame, leading to much more expensive repairs.

  26. 26

    Hardwood floor cupping or warping

    Cupping (boards curling up at the edges into a concave shape) and crowning (bulging up in the middle) are moisture problems, not flooring defects. Hardwood expands when it absorbs moisture and contracts when it dries — when one side absorbs more than the other, the boards distort. The number-one cause of cupping is a moisture source from below: a leaking dishwasher, a damp crawlspace without a vapor barrier, a slab that wasn't properly sealed, or a leaking pipe under the floor. Less commonly, cupping happens during humid summers in homes without air conditioning. Before any flooring repair makes sense, you must find and fix the moisture source — a plumber for leaks, a contractor for crawlspace encapsulation, or an HVAC tech to address humidity. Once moisture is controlled, mild cupping often resolves itself over weeks. Severe or permanent cupping requires sanding and refinishing ($3–$8 per sq ft) or full board replacement. Acting fast matters: prolonged moisture leads to mold, rot, and complete floor failure costing $10,000+.

  27. 27

    Garage door opener not responding to remote

    When your garage door opener ignores the remote but works from the wall button, the issue is usually the remote itself (dead battery, $3–$5 fix) or radio-frequency interference. But when the opener doesn't respond to either the remote or the wall button, the problem is likely electrical: a tripped GFCI outlet, a blown motor capacitor, or a failed circuit board in the opener unit. A handyman can diagnose and fix most garage door opener issues in under an hour. Common repairs include replacing the capacitor ($15–$50 part, $100–$200 with labor), reprogramming or replacing remotes ($20–$80 per remote), realigning safety sensors ($50–$100), or replacing the entire logic board ($100–$250 part, $150–$350 total). If the motor itself is burned out and the opener is over 10–15 years old, replacement of the entire unit ($250–$600 for the opener plus $150–$300 for installation) is more cost-effective than a motor rebuild. Important safety note: never attempt to adjust the torsion springs above the door — they are under extreme tension and cause serious injuries every year. Spring repairs must be done by a trained professional ($150–$350).

  28. 28

    Broken garage door spring

    A broken garage door spring makes the door extremely heavy — often impossible to lift by hand — and puts dangerous stress on the opener motor. Torsion springs snap loudly (you may have heard a gunshot-like bang from the garage), while extension springs visibly separate. Because these springs are under hundreds of pounds of tension, replacement is one of the few garage repairs that should never be a DIY project. A handyman or garage door technician can safely replace the spring, re-balance the door, and test the safety reversal mechanism.

  29. 29

    Signs of termite damage

    Termites cause over $5 billion in property damage annually in the US — more than fires, floods, and storms combined. Because they eat wood from the inside out, infestations often go unnoticed until structural damage is severe. A pest control professional can inspect, identify the species, and recommend treatment before costly repairs are needed.

  30. 30

    Fireplace not drafting properly

    When smoke pours into your living room instead of going up the chimney, the fireplace has a drafting problem. Causes range from a closed damper to a blocked flue, negative house pressure, or a cold chimney. A chimney professional can diagnose the airflow issue and restore safe operation.

  31. 31

    Garage door won't open

    A garage door that won't open can be caused by a broken torsion spring (most common — you'll hear a loud bang), a dead opener motor, stripped gears, a disconnected or broken cable, a misaligned track, or something as simple as dead remote batteries or a locked manual latch. If the spring is visibly broken (a gap in the coil above the door), do not attempt to open the door manually — the door weighs 150–400 lbs and the remaining spring cannot counterbalance it safely. A garage door technician ($75–$150/hour, $150–$350 for a spring replacement) can diagnose and fix the issue, usually same-day. If the opener motor hums but the door doesn't move, the gear may be stripped ($100–$200 to replace) or the disconnect cord was pulled.

  32. 32

    Garage door making loud noise

    A noisy garage door — grinding, squealing, rattling, or popping — usually indicates worn rollers, dry hinges, loose hardware, or unbalanced springs. Most noise issues are maintenance problems, not emergencies, and a tune-up ($75–$150) resolves them. Grinding metal-on-metal sounds mean the nylon roller sleeves have worn through to the steel stem — replacement rollers cost $10–$15 each (6–12 per door) plus $100–$200 labor. Squealing means dry bearings or hinges needing lubrication ($50–$100 for a full-door lube service). Rattling often means loose bolts, which tighten in minutes. Popping during operation can indicate a spring nearing end-of-life — have it inspected before it snaps.

  33. 33

    Bathroom outdated or falling apart

    An outdated bathroom — cracked tiles, failing grout, rusty fixtures, poor water pressure, mold around the tub, or a layout that wastes space — affects both daily comfort and home value. A bathroom remodel ($5,000–$25,000 for a full gut remodel, $2,000–$8,000 for a cosmetic refresh) modernizes finishes, improves functionality, and returns 60–70% of cost at resale (NAR 2025 Remodeling Impact Report). Common triggers: crumbling grout or caulk allowing water behind walls (a structural risk), fixtures that no longer work properly, accessibility needs for aging in place, or simply wanting a space that feels clean and modern. Start by getting 2–3 quotes from licensed contractors who specialize in bathrooms — the scope varies enormously, and a good contractor will help you prioritize what matters most within your budget.

  34. 34

    Kitchen outdated or falling apart

    An outdated kitchen — peeling laminate cabinets, worn countertops, inefficient layout, aging appliances — is the most common renovation trigger in American homes. A minor kitchen remodel ($15,000–$35,000) focusing on cabinet refacing, new countertops, and updated fixtures returns 75–80% at resale. A major gut remodel ($40,000–$80,000+) with new layout, cabinets, appliances, and flooring returns 50–60%. The right scope depends on your goals: if you're selling within 2 years, a minor refresh yields better ROI. If you're staying long-term, invest in what makes daily cooking and living better. Common starting points: cabinet refacing or painting ($3,000–$8,000) transforms the look without full replacement, and new countertops ($2,000–$6,000 for quartz) provide the biggest visual impact per dollar.

07/20

Painter

13 common problems

Find a painter near you
  1. 01

    Peeling paint

    Peeling, bubbling, or flaking paint is often caused by moisture intrusion, poor surface preparation, or incompatible paint layers. Beyond looking unsightly, peeling exterior paint exposes wood to rot and insect damage. A professional painter will scrape, prime, and repaint the surface for a lasting finish.

  2. 02

    Water stains on ceiling

    Yellow or brown water stains on the ceiling indicate past or ongoing water intrusion from a leaky roof, pipe, or HVAC condensate line. First, have a plumber or roofer address the water source. Once the leak is fixed, a painter can cover the stains and restore the ceiling's appearance.

  3. 03

    Paint bubbling or blistering

    Bubbling or blistering paint is usually caused by moisture trapped beneath the surface, poor surface preparation before the previous paint job, or exposure to excessive heat. If ignored, the blisters will spread and peel, leaving surfaces unprotected against moisture and decay. A professional painter can identify the moisture source, properly strip and prepare the surface, and apply a durable finish that lasts.

  4. 04

    Ceiling stains and discoloration

    Yellow, brown, or ring-shaped stains on your ceiling can result from water leaks, smoke, cooking grease, or aged paint. Before repainting, it's critical to identify and fix the source — painting over a water stain without fixing the leak means it will come right back. A professional painter knows which primers block stains permanently and can match existing ceiling paint for a seamless finish.

  5. 05

    Exterior paint chalking or fading

    Chalking is the white powdery residue that forms on exterior paint surfaces as UV rays and weather break down the binder. Left untreated, it leads to fading, bare wood exposure, and moisture damage. A professional painter can power-wash the surface, prime affected areas, and apply UV-resistant exterior paint to restore and protect your home's finish.

  6. 06

    Exterior paint fading or chalking

    Exterior paint that has noticeably faded, chalked, or lost its original vibrancy is more than a cosmetic issue — it signals that the protective film on your siding, trim, or stucco is breaking down and leaving the substrate exposed to moisture, UV radiation, and temperature swings. Chalking is the white, powdery residue you can rub off with a finger, caused by the paint binder degrading under sunlight. South- and west-facing walls fade fastest because they receive the most direct sun. Low-quality paint, insufficient surface preparation, or applying paint too thin during the original job accelerates the problem. Left unaddressed, the exposed wood, fiber cement, or stucco absorbs water, leading to rot, efflorescence, or cracking that costs significantly more to repair. A professional exterior repaint typically runs $3,000–$8,000 for an average-sized home depending on siding material, number of stories, and prep work required. Proper prep — power washing, scraping loose paint, priming bare spots — accounts for most of the labor and determines how long the new coat lasts (7–15 years for quality acrylic latex).

  7. 07

    Popcorn ceiling crumbling or falling off

    Popcorn (acoustic) ceilings installed before 1980 may contain asbestos, so any crumbling or flaking must be taken seriously. Even asbestos-free popcorn texture deteriorates over time — water stains soften it, humidity loosens the bond, and every vibration from above shakes particles loose. Removal involves wetting the surface, scraping the texture down to the drywall, skim-coating the ceiling smooth, and then priming and painting — a messy, labor-intensive process that a professional painter handles far better than DIY. A painter experienced with texture removal will test for asbestos first ($25–$75 per sample through a certified lab, results in 1–3 days). If asbestos-free, removal and finishing runs $1–$3 per square foot ($1,000–$3,000 for a typical 1,000 sq ft ceiling area). If asbestos is present, a licensed abatement contractor is required by law — costs jump to $3–$7 per square foot ($3,000–$7,000) including containment, HEPA filtration, and legal disposal. An alternative to removal is encapsulation: a painter can apply a new layer of joint compound or specialty ceiling paint that locks the texture in place ($0.50–$1.50/sq ft), though this only works if the existing texture is still mostly adhered.

  8. 08

    Wallpaper peeling off the wall

    Wallpaper that's bubbling, curling at the seams, or peeling off in sheets is more than a cosmetic nuisance — it often signals moisture intrusion, poor surface preparation during the original installation, or adhesive that has failed with age. Bathrooms and kitchens are especially prone because of daily steam exposure. A professional painter can remove the old wallpaper cleanly, repair the underlying drywall, prime the surface properly, and either re-hang new wallpaper or finish with paint — giving you a result that lasts.

  9. 09

    Paint alligator cracking

    Alligator cracking (also called crocodile cracking or checking) is a pattern of deep, interconnected cracks in paint that resembles reptile scales. Unlike fine surface cracking, alligator cracking penetrates through multiple paint layers, indicating a fundamental adhesion failure. Common causes include painting over uncured or incompatible layers, applying paint in extreme heat or cold, or decades of UV degradation without maintenance. Fixing alligator cracking requires scraping and sanding down to bare wood or a stable substrate, priming, and repainting — simply painting over it will repeat the failure within months. A professional painter can assess whether the issue is localized or the entire surface needs stripping.

  10. 10

    Mildew or mold on exterior paint

    Dark green, gray, or black splotches on exterior-painted surfaces — siding, trim, soffits, and window frames — are usually mildew or mold growth on the paint film itself. Mildew thrives on north-facing walls, shaded areas, and surfaces near sprinklers or dense landscaping where moisture lingers. Unlike dirt, mildew is organic growth that feeds on the paint's binder and won't wash off with water alone. A bleach solution test confirms mildew: apply a few drops of household bleach (1:10 dilution) — if the spot lightens within 1–2 minutes, it's mildew; if not, it's dirt or staining. Professional pressure washing with mildewcide ($200–$600 for a typical home) removes existing growth, but repainting with mildew-resistant paint ($40–$60/gallon) is needed if the paint film is degraded. Prevention: trim vegetation 12–18 inches from walls, redirect sprinklers, ensure gutters don't overflow onto siding, and use paint with built-in mildewcide for shaded exposures.

  11. 11

    Paint peeling from exterior trim

    Peeling paint on exterior trim (window frames, fascia, soffits, door casings) exposes wood to moisture, leading to rot, insect damage, and costly replacements if ignored. A professional painter can scrape, prime, and repaint trim to restore protection and curb appeal.

  12. 12

    Ceiling water stain bleeding through paint

    A brown or yellow stain that keeps reappearing after painting indicates a moisture source that hasn't been resolved, or the wrong primer was used. A painter experienced with stain-blocking primers (shellac-based or encapsulating) can seal the stain permanently — but only after the leak source is fixed.

  13. 13

    Mildew growing on painted walls

    Dark spots or fuzzy patches on painted interior walls — especially in bathrooms, kitchens, and basements — indicate mildew growth caused by excess moisture. A painter can kill the mildew, apply mildew-resistant primer, and repaint with mold-inhibiting paint, while recommending ventilation improvements to prevent recurrence.

08/20

Landscaper

18 common problems

Find a landscaper near you
  1. 01

    Overgrown yard

    An overgrown yard with uncontrolled weeds, tall grass, and untrimmed bushes reduces curb appeal and can harbor pests. Regular maintenance may not be enough to reclaim a heavily overgrown property. A landscaper can perform a full cleanup, restore beds, and set up a maintenance plan.

  2. 02

    Dead lawn patches

    Brown or bare patches in your lawn can result from grub damage, fungal disease, pet urine, compacted soil, or improper watering. A landscaper can test the soil, treat the underlying cause, and reseed or resod the affected areas to bring your lawn back to life.

  3. 03

    Dangerous tree limbs

    Dead, cracked, or overhanging tree limbs can fall without warning, damaging roofs, cars, power lines, or injuring people. Storm-damaged or diseased trees are especially risky. A tree-service professional can safely prune or remove hazardous limbs and assess the overall health of the tree.

  4. 04

    Standing water and drainage problems in yard

    Standing water in your yard after rain creates mosquito breeding grounds, kills grass, and can seep toward your foundation causing structural issues. Poor drainage often results from compacted soil, improper grading, or blocked drainage paths. A landscaper can regrade your yard, install French drains or dry wells, and create swales to redirect water away from your home and usable outdoor areas.

  5. 05

    Overgrown shrubs blocking windows or walkways

    Shrubs and hedges that have grown out of control block natural light, reduce curb appeal, create security risks by hiding entry points, and can damage siding or window frames through constant contact. Severe overgrowth also traps moisture against the house, encouraging mold and wood rot. A landscaper or tree service professional can reshape, prune, or remove overgrown plantings and establish a maintenance schedule to keep them under control.

  6. 06

    Sprinkler system not working

    A malfunctioning sprinkler system leaves parts of your lawn dry while potentially flooding others. Broken heads, valve failures, and controller issues waste water and damage your landscape. A landscaping professional can diagnose the problem, repair or replace components, and adjust coverage zones for even watering.

  7. 07

    Retaining wall leaning or bulging

    A leaning or bulging retaining wall is a structural failure that gets worse with every rain. Water pressure (hydrostatic pressure) builds behind the wall when the drainage system clogs or was never installed, and the weight of saturated soil pushes the wall forward. Other causes include inadequate footing depth, missing or degraded tiebacks/geogrids, frost heave, and tree root pressure. A wall leaning more than 1–2 inches out of plumb is at risk of sudden collapse — especially dangerous on slopes near homes, driveways, or walkways. A landscaper experienced in hardscaping can assess the wall, install or repair French drains behind it, rebuild collapsed sections with proper gravel backfill and drainage fabric, and add deadman anchors or geogrids for long-term stability.

  8. 08

    Lawn grub damage

    Brown, irregularly shaped patches of turf that peel back like loose carpet are the hallmark of a grub infestation. White grubs — the larval stage of Japanese beetles, June bugs, European chafers, and other scarab beetles — live just below the soil surface and feed on grass roots from late summer through fall. A lawn with more than 10 grubs per square foot will lose enough root mass for the turf to die in patches and become vulnerable to secondary damage from raccoons, skunks, and birds that dig up the lawn to feed on the larvae. A professional landscaper or lawn-care specialist can confirm the infestation by cutting a one-square-foot flap of sod and counting grubs, then apply a curative grub treatment such as trichlorfon or a preventive like chlorantraniliprole at the correct timing. They will also overseed and fertilize damaged areas to restore full coverage and recommend a long-term prevention schedule to protect the lawn in subsequent seasons.

  9. 09

    Irrigation system leak

    An irrigation system leak wastes water, raises utility bills, and can create soggy areas in your lawn that promote fungal disease and erosion. Leaks can occur at sprinkler heads, pipe joints, valves, or underground lines. A landscaper or irrigation specialist can locate the leak, repair or replace damaged components, and adjust the system for efficient coverage.

  10. 10

    Uneven or bumpy lawn

    An uneven lawn with bumps, dips, and ridges makes mowing difficult, creates tripping hazards, and causes water to pool in low spots rather than draining evenly. Common causes include settling soil, burrowing animals, decomposing organic matter beneath the surface, poor grading during construction, and freeze-thaw cycles. Minor unevenness can be corrected with topdressing — spreading a thin layer of soil-compost mix and leveling it. Severe cases may need core aeration, regrading, or even sod replacement. A landscaper can assess whether the issue is cosmetic or indicates a deeper drainage or soil problem.

  11. 11

    Tree stump left in the yard

    A tree stump left after removal is more than an eyesore — it attracts termites, carpenter ants, and wood-boring beetles that can eventually migrate to your home's structure. Stumps also send up sucker shoots that keep the root system alive and actively seeking water, potentially invading sewer lines or lifting walkways. Stump grinding is the standard removal method: a machine with a spinning carbide-toothed wheel chews the stump 6–12 inches below grade, turning it into a pile of wood chips you can use as mulch. Most stumps 12–24 inches in diameter cost $100–$300 to grind; larger stumps or those near utilities may run $300–$600. Full root extraction (pulling the entire root ball with an excavator) costs $300–$800+ and is only necessary if you're building over the spot or the roots are causing structural damage. A tree service or landscaper handles stump grinding — call a tree service if roots are the concern, a landscaper if you want the area regraded and replanted afterward.

  12. 12

    Tree roots lifting driveway

    Tree roots growing beneath a driveway, sidewalk, or patio can crack and lift concrete slabs, creating trip hazards and costly damage. A tree service or arborist can assess whether roots can be safely pruned without killing the tree, or whether the tree needs removal. A landscaper or concrete contractor can then repair or replace the damaged surface.

  13. 13

    Lawn fungus or brown spots

    Brown, yellow, or dead patches appearing on your lawn — especially circular or ring-shaped patterns — often indicate a fungal disease rather than drought or insect damage. Common lawn fungi include brown patch (Rhizoctonia), dollar spot, fairy ring, and snow mold. Fungal infections typically strike when warm days combine with humid nights and poor air circulation. Over-watering, excessive nitrogen fertilization, and mowing too short all increase vulnerability. Early intervention is critical: a small brown patch can spread across an entire yard within 1–2 weeks under favorable conditions. Professional diagnosis ($50–$150 for a lawn inspection) identifies the specific fungus and treatment — fungicide applications run $100–$300 per treatment, and most lawns need 2–3 applications spaced 14–21 days apart.

  14. 14

    Sprinkler head broken or leaking

    A broken or misaligned sprinkler head wastes water, creates muddy patches, and leaves other areas of the lawn dry. A landscaper or irrigation specialist can replace the head, adjust spray patterns, and check for line damage — usually in under an hour.

  15. 15

    Lawn edging overgrown into beds and walkways

    Grass creeping into flower beds, over sidewalk edges, and across driveways looks untidy and damages hardscaping. A lawn care service re-establishes clean edges with a power edger, installs edging material if needed, and sets up a maintenance schedule.

  16. 16

    Soil erosion around foundation

    When soil washes away from your home's foundation, it exposes the concrete footer, creates pooling zones where water collects against the house, and can eventually lead to foundation settling or basement leaks. Common causes are missing gutters, short downspout extensions, sloped grading toward the house, or bare soil without ground cover. A landscaper can regrade the perimeter, install drainage swales, add erosion-control plantings, and mulch exposed areas to redirect water away from the structure.

  17. 17

    Standing water on lawn after rain

    If water sits on your lawn for more than 24 hours after rain, the yard has a drainage problem. Persistent standing water kills grass, breeds mosquitoes, attracts pests, and can seep toward the foundation. Causes include compacted clay soil, low spots in the grade, or lack of a drainage system. A landscaper can aerate compacted soil, regrade low areas, install a French drain or catch basin, and select moisture-tolerant grass species to solve the problem permanently.

  18. 18

    Tree canopy blocking sunlight to lawn

    When mature trees develop dense canopies, the grass below thins and dies from lack of sunlight. Moss, bare dirt, and weeds replace turf in heavy shade. Simply reseeding fails because new grass needs at least 4 hours of filtered sunlight daily. An arborist or landscaper can crown-thin the canopy (selectively removing 15–25% of branches) to let light through without harming the tree, then overseed with shade-tolerant grass varieties like fine fescue.

09/20

House Cleaner

3 common problems

Find a house cleaner near you
  1. 01

    Mold in bathroom

    Black or green mold on bathroom tiles, grout, ceilings, or caulk is caused by persistent moisture and poor ventilation. Beyond looking unpleasant, mold can trigger allergies and respiratory issues. A deep-cleaning specialist can remove surface mold, and a handyman can address ventilation or caulking to prevent recurrence.

  2. 02

    Post-renovation dust and mess

    After a renovation or construction project, fine dust settles on every surface — inside cabinets, on light fixtures, in HVAC ducts, and behind appliances. Regular cleaning tools can't handle construction dust, which contains drywall particles, wood dust, and adhesive residue. A professional deep cleaning crew has industrial vacuums with HEPA filters, knows how to clean ductwork registers, and can restore your home to move-in condition in a single visit.

  3. 03

    Grease buildup in kitchen

    Sticky grease film builds up on kitchen cabinets, range hoods, backsplashes, and above-stove surfaces over time. Regular wiping can't dissolve baked-on grease layers, especially on textured surfaces and inside exhaust hood filters. Left untreated, grease buildup becomes a fire hazard and attracts pests. A deep cleaning service uses commercial degreasers and steam cleaning to remove years of buildup safely.

10/20

Mover

11 common problems

Find a mover near you
  1. 01

    Preparing to move

    Moving to a new home involves packing, loading, transporting, and unloading your belongings safely. Doing it yourself risks injury and damage to furniture. A professional moving company handles the heavy lifting, provides packing materials, and ensures your possessions arrive intact.

  2. 02

    Downsizing for a move

    Moving to a smaller home, an assisted living facility, or just trying to reduce what you own? Downsizing before a move cuts moving costs, reduces stress, and ensures you only bring what fits and matters. Professional movers can help with packing, hauling donations, and organizing the logistics of a phased move.

  3. 03

    Damage during a move

    Furniture scratches, dented walls, broken items, and floor scuffs are common during moves — especially DIY ones without proper equipment. Professional movers use padding, straps, floor runners, and door-frame protectors to prevent damage. If damage has already occurred, a moving company can assess claims, while a handyman can repair drywall dings and floor scratches.

  4. 04

    Furniture won't fit through doorway or staircase

    Oversized sofas, king mattresses, large desks, and armoires that won't fit through standard 30–36" doorways or tight stairwells are one of the most stressful moving-day surprises. Professional movers ($80–$150/hour for 2–3 movers) have techniques most DIYers don't: removing doors and hinges to gain 2", tilting and pivoting at specific angles, disassembling sectionals, and using furniture sliders or shoulder dollies for tight turns. If the piece truly can't make the turn, movers can hoist it through a window or balcony using a rope-and-pulley system ($100–$300 extra). Measure doorways, stairwell widths, and ceiling heights before moving day — the tightest point is usually the landing turn in a staircase, not the front door.

  5. 05

    Items damaged during a move

    Scratched furniture, broken mirrors, dented appliances, and crushed boxes are unfortunately common during moves — the American Moving and Storage Association estimates that 1 in 4 moves involves some damage. If you used a licensed moving company, you have legal recourse: federal law requires movers to offer at minimum "released value" coverage at $0.60/lb per item (meaning a 50 lb TV gets $30 — virtually nothing). Better movers offer "full value protection" ($5,000–$50,000+ coverage depending on shipment weight, at $0 or $100–$300 premium) that pays repair or replacement cost. File your claim in writing within 9 months of delivery (FMCSA regulation). Take photos of damage before signing the inventory sheet. For local moves, liability depends on state law and the contract terms — read the fine print before moving day.

  6. 06

    Moving company no-show on moving day

    If your booked moving company fails to arrive on the scheduled date, you need an emergency backup plan. Contact last-minute movers who specialize in same-day or next-day service — they charge a premium ($100–$200 extra) but can prevent lease overlap penalties, hotel costs, and scheduling cascades.

  7. 07

    Heavy furniture won't fit up narrow stairs

    Large furniture (sectional sofas, king mattresses, armoires, pianos) often won't fit through tight stairwells, narrow hallways, or around sharp landings. Professional movers with hoisting/rigging experience can disassemble, angle, or use window-hoist techniques to get heavy items to upper floors safely without damaging walls or the item.

  8. 08

    Belongings won't fit in storage unit

    You rented a storage unit but your belongings won't fit — furniture is too bulky, boxes are unorganized, or you underestimated volume. Professional movers can disassemble furniture, stack and organize efficiently, and advise on the right unit size before you upgrade.

  9. 09

    Moving estimate much higher than quoted

    You received a low quote but on moving day the bill doubled. This is a common red flag — legitimate movers provide binding or not-to-exceed estimates after an in-home or virtual survey. Knowing your rights and getting proper estimates prevents surprise charges.

  10. 10

    Appliance won't fit through doorway

    A new refrigerator, washer, or other large appliance won't fit through the front door, hallway, or into the designated room. Removing doors from hinges often solves it, but tight corners, narrow staircases, or undersized kitchen openings may require disassembly of the appliance or temporary removal of door trim and casings. Professional movers with appliance experience can measure, plan the route, remove obstacles, and manoeuvre heavy units safely without damaging walls, floors, or the appliance itself.

  11. 11

    Piano or safe needs moving

    Pianos (300–1,200 lb) and safes (200–5,000 lb) are among the heaviest, most awkward items in a home. Moving them without proper equipment risks serious injury, damaged floors, crushed stairs, and broken instruments. Specialty movers use piano boards, heavy-duty straps, stair-climbing dollies, and protective padding. Grand pianos require disassembly of the legs and lyre. Attempting a DIY move with friends almost always ends in scratched floors, dented walls, or a thrown-out back.

11/20

cleaner

16 common problems

Find a cleaner near you
  1. 01

    Persistent musty smell in home

    A musty smell that lingers despite regular cleaning often indicates hidden mold, mildew, or deeply embedded dirt in carpets, upholstery, or ductwork. The odor can be strongest in basements, bathrooms, closets, or rooms with poor ventilation. A deep cleaning service can treat the root cause — shampooing carpets, sanitizing ductwork, cleaning behind appliances, and addressing hidden moisture sources that regular housekeeping misses.

  2. 02

    Carpet stains that won't come out

    Stubborn carpet stains — wine, coffee, pet urine, ink, or ground-in dirt — resist regular vacuuming and store-bought spot cleaners. Professional carpet cleaning uses hot water extraction at 200°F+ to dissolve and extract stains from deep within the carpet fibers and pad. Most stains that have set for less than 6 months respond well to professional treatment ($120–$300 for a whole-home clean, $50–$100 for targeted spot treatment). The longer a stain sits, the more it bonds to carpet fibers — treat quickly for best results. If the stain has reached the carpet pad (common with pet urine), the pad may need replacement along with cleaning for full odor removal.

  3. 03

    Carpet smells bad

    Persistent carpet odor — musty, sour, or pet-related — usually means bacteria, mold, or organic matter trapped in the carpet pad or fibers. Regular vacuuming and air fresheners mask but don't eliminate the source. Professional carpet cleaning with enzyme-based pre-treatment ($120–$300) breaks down odor-causing bacteria at the molecular level. For severe pet odor, the pad may need replacement ($2–$4/sq ft) since urine crystals reactivate with humidity. Mildew smell often indicates moisture trapped under the carpet, which requires both drying and antimicrobial treatment to prevent health issues.

  4. 04

    Green algae or mildew on siding

    Green or black streaks on vinyl, wood, or fiber-cement siding are usually algae (Gloeocapsa magma) or mildew colonies fed by moisture and shade. Left alone they trap moisture against the surface, accelerating rot in wood and degrading paint. A professional pressure washing ($200–$500 for an average home exterior) removes these growths in 2–3 hours using a soft-wash technique — low pressure (under 1,500 PSI) with a sodium hypochlorite or oxygen bleach solution that kills spores without damaging siding. Standard high-pressure washing can force water behind siding laps on vinyl and splinter softwood grain, so soft-wash is the industry standard for building exteriors.

  5. 05

    Driveway stained or dingy

    Oil stains, tire marks, rust streaks, and embedded dirt make concrete and paver driveways look years older than they are. Pressure washing ($100–$250 for a standard driveway) restores the original appearance in 1–2 hours. For concrete, professionals use 3,000–4,000 PSI with a surface cleaner attachment (a spinning wand under a shroud) that delivers even results without striping. Oil stains may need a degreaser pre-treatment ($25–$50 extra). For pavers, re-sanding joints and sealing after washing ($0.50–$1.50/sq ft) prevents weed growth and locks the sand in place for 2–3 years.

  6. 06

    Deck or patio gray and discolored

    Wood decks turn gray within 6–12 months of UV exposure as lignin on the surface breaks down. Composite decks develop surface mold in humid climates. Concrete patios collect dirt, moss, and leaf tannin stains. Pressure washing ($150–$350 for a standard deck, $100–$250 for a patio) strips the gray layer and restores the wood's natural tone. For wood decks, washing should be followed by brightener (oxalic acid, $15–$30 DIY), drying 48–72 hours, then staining or sealing ($1–$3/sq ft professional, $0.30–$0.75/sq ft DIY). Without sealer, the deck re-grays within a year.

  7. 07

    Grout staining in bathroom tiles

    Discolored or blackened grout between bathroom tiles is caused by mold, mildew, soap scum buildup, and hard water deposits. Regular cleaning can't always restore it. A professional deep cleaner with grout-specific tools (steam cleaners, rotary brushes, commercial-grade hydrogen peroxide) can restore grout to near-original color and apply sealant to prevent future staining.

  8. 08

    Kitchen grease buildup on cabinets and range hood

    Sticky grease film on kitchen cabinets, range hood, and backsplash accumulates over months of cooking. It attracts dust, discolors surfaces, and becomes a fire hazard near the stove. A professional deep cleaner uses commercial degreasers, steam, and detail tools to remove baked-on grease without damaging cabinet finishes.

  9. 09

    Hard water stains on glass shower doors

    White, cloudy, or spotty mineral deposits on glass shower doors are caused by calcium and magnesium in hard water. Once baked on by repeated wetting and drying, they resist regular bathroom cleaners. A professional cleaner uses acidic solutions (phosphoric or hydrochloric acid-based), polishing compounds, and razor techniques to restore clarity, then applies hydrophobic coating to prevent recurrence.

  10. 10

    Oven caked with grease

    Burnt-on grease and carbonized food residue inside the oven cause smoke, bad odors, and even fire risk. Professional oven cleaning removes baked-on layers without damaging enamel or heating elements, restoring the oven to near-factory condition.

  11. 11

    Mattress stains and odor

    Sweat, spills, and dust mites accumulate in mattresses over time, causing yellow stains, odors, and allergic reactions. Professional mattress cleaning uses hot-water extraction or UV sanitization to remove deep-set stains and eliminate allergens without soaking the mattress.

  12. 12

    Tile grout discolored or blackened

    Grout absorbs moisture, soap scum, and mildew over time, turning from white or light gray to dark brown or black. Professional grout cleaning and sealing restores the original color and prevents future discoloration for 1–3 years.

  13. 13

    Patio furniture leaving rust stains on concrete

    Metal patio furniture legs leave orange-brown rust rings on concrete, pavers, and stone. These stains don't wash off with soap and water. Pressure washing with a rust-dissolving treatment removes the stains without damaging the surface, and a concrete sealer prevents recurrence.

  14. 14

    Hard water deposits on fixtures

    White, chalky deposits on faucets, showerheads, and glass doors are caused by mineral-rich hard water. Over time the buildup restricts water flow, etches glass permanently, and dulls chrome and brushed-nickel finishes. Store-bought sprays treat surface film but can't dissolve deep mineral crusts around aerators and valve seats. A professional deep cleaning service uses commercial-grade acid-based descalers, soaks fixtures safely, and polishes surfaces back to their original finish without scratching.

  15. 15

    Window tracks full of grime

    Window tracks collect dust, dead insects, pollen, and moisture over months, forming a compacted layer of grime that prevents windows from sliding smoothly or sealing properly. Dirty tracks can cause drafts, let in rainwater, and make windows difficult to open or close. A thorough cleaning service vacuums debris from the channels, scrubs with specialized brushes, treats mold or mildew, lubricates the tracks, and checks weatherstripping — restoring full function and a better seal.

  16. 16

    Soap scum buildup in shower

    A thick, hazy film of soap scum coats shower walls, doors, and fixtures when soap reacts with hard water minerals. Over time it hardens into a stubborn layer that traps mold and bacteria underneath. Household bathroom cleaners can slow the buildup but rarely remove established deposits. A professional deep cleaning service uses alkaline cleaners or steam to dissolve hardened scum, scrubs tile grout lines, and treats glass with a protective coating that resists future buildup.

12/20

hvac-technician

5 common problems

Find a hvac-technician near you
  1. 01

    Unexplainably high energy bills

    A sudden spike in energy bills without a change in habits usually points to an inefficient HVAC system, poor insulation, or an electrical issue. Common culprits include a dirty furnace filter, refrigerant leak, faulty thermostat, aging water heater, or air leaks around windows and doors. An HVAC technician can perform an efficiency audit, clean or tune up your system, seal ductwork, and recommend upgrades that pay for themselves in lower bills.

  2. 02

    Heat pump not defrosting

    Heat pumps naturally build frost on the outdoor coil in cold weather, and they run automatic defrost cycles every 30–90 minutes to melt it off. When defrost fails, ice encases the entire outdoor unit, blocking airflow and destroying efficiency — you'll notice lukewarm air from the vents and the compressor running constantly. Common causes are a faulty defrost control board or timer, a stuck reversing valve (which flips the system to cooling mode temporarily to defrost), a bad defrost thermostat or sensor, or a refrigerant leak that alters coil temperature. An HVAC technician can diagnose the failed component, replace the board, sensor, or valve, and verify proper defrost cycling before ice damages the compressor.

  3. 03

    Attic too hot in summer

    An attic that reaches 140–160°F in summer can radiate heat into living spaces, overwork your AC, and shorten roof shingle life. Poor ventilation is the primary cause — soffit vents may be blocked by insulation, ridge vents may be missing, or the attic may lack sufficient exhaust capacity. An HVAC technician or roofer can evaluate ventilation, add powered or passive vents, and improve insulation to reduce heat transfer.

  4. 04

    Thermostat not responding

    When your thermostat screen is blank, unresponsive, or the HVAC system ignores temperature changes, the problem may be as simple as dead batteries or as complex as a wiring failure. An HVAC technician can diagnose whether the issue is the thermostat itself, the wiring, or the equipment it controls.

  5. 05

    Unusually high energy bill

    A sudden spike in your electricity or gas bill — without changes in usage habits — often points to HVAC inefficiency, air leaks, failing insulation, or an appliance running overtime. An HVAC technician or energy auditor can identify the culprit and recommend targeted fixes that pay for themselves quickly.

13/20

cleaning

3 common problems

Find a cleaning near you
  1. 01

    Persistent pet odor in carpets and upholstery

    Pet urine, dander, and body oils can penetrate deep into carpet fibers, padding, and even the subfloor, creating persistent odors that regular vacuuming and surface cleaning cannot eliminate. The odor intensifies in humid conditions as bacteria break down uric acid crystals embedded in the carpet pad. Standard household carpet cleaners only address the surface — they cannot reach urine that has soaked through to the padding and subfloor beneath. A professional deep-cleaning service uses enzymatic treatments specifically designed to break down uric acid at the molecular level, combined with hot water extraction that reaches deep into the carpet backing and pad. For severe cases, the technician may need to pull back carpet sections, treat or replace the pad, and seal the subfloor with an odor-blocking primer before re-laying the carpet. Professional pet odor treatment costs $200–$500 per room, while full carpet replacement runs $800–$2,500 per room including padding and installation.

  2. 02

    Hard water stains and mineral buildup

    White, chalky deposits on faucets, showerheads, glass doors, and tile are caused by dissolved calcium and magnesium in hard water. Beyond looking unsightly, mineral buildup restricts water flow in fixtures, reduces water heater efficiency, and etches into glass surfaces permanently if left too long. A professional deep cleaning can remove existing buildup, and a plumber can install a water softener to prevent it from coming back.

  3. 03

    Carpet stains that won't come out

    Stubborn carpet stains that resist DIY cleaning often need professional treatment. Common culprits include red wine, pet urine, coffee, ink, and rust — each requires a different chemistry to break down. The biggest mistake homeowners make is scrubbing, which pushes the stain deeper into the carpet backing and pad. Professional carpet cleaners use hot water extraction (steam cleaning) at 200–250°F with specialized spotting agents that target specific stain types. Professional cleaning costs $120–$300 for a standard room; specialized stain treatment adds $20–$50 per spot. For pet urine that has soaked into the pad, sub-surface extraction may be needed ($150–$300 per affected area), and in severe cases the pad must be replaced ($3–$6 per square foot).

14/20

mover

1 common problems

Find a mover near you
  1. 01

    Junk piling up in home or garage

    When clutter takes over — a garage you can't park in, a basement full of old furniture, an attic packed with boxes — junk removal services send a crew with a truck to haul everything away in a single visit. Unlike regular trash pickup, junk removal handles large, heavy, and bulky items: old sofas, mattresses, appliances, exercise equipment, yard waste, and construction debris. Most companies charge by volume ($150–$600 for a full truck load) and sort for donation and recycling, so usable items don't go to landfill. Typical scenarios: pre-move declutter, estate cleanout, post-renovation debris, garage reclaim, or seasonal purge. The crew does all the heavy lifting — you point at what goes, they do the rest. Most jobs take 1–3 hours.

15/20

Pest Control Technician

5 common problems

Find a pest control technician near you
  1. 01

    Ant Infestation in Kitchen

    A trail of ants across your countertops usually means a colony has established a scent route to a food or moisture source inside your home. Without professional treatment the colony will keep sending workers, and satellite nests can form in wall voids. A pest-control technician locates the nest, applies targeted bait or barrier treatments, and seals common entry points to prevent re-infestation.

  2. 02

    Mice or Rodents in Walls

    Scratching or scurrying sounds inside walls and ceilings, especially at night, are the most common sign of a mouse or rat infestation. Rodents gnaw electrical wiring, contaminate insulation with droppings, and reproduce rapidly—one pair can produce dozens of offspring in a year. A pest-control technician inspects for entry points, sets traps or bait stations, and exclusion-seals gaps to stop the cycle.

  3. 03

    Cockroach Infestation

    Spotting even a single cockroach during the day usually signals a larger colony hiding in walls, under appliances, or inside drain lines. Cockroaches carry bacteria, trigger allergies and asthma, and reproduce extremely fast. A pest-control technician applies gel baits, growth regulators, and residual sprays to eliminate the colony at its source and advises on sanitation changes that reduce re-infestation risk.

  4. 04

    Wasp or Hornet Nest on Property

    A wasp or hornet nest near doors, eaves, play areas, or garden sheds poses a serious sting risk, especially for anyone with allergies. Disturbing the nest without protective equipment and proper insecticide can provoke a swarm attack. A pest-control technician identifies the species, treats or removes the nest safely—often at dusk when the colony is least active—and recommends deterrents to prevent rebuilding.

  5. 05

    Mosquito Infestation

    A persistent mosquito infestation makes outdoor spaces unusable, poses health risks from diseases such as West Nile virus and Zika, and can breed rapidly in even small amounts of standing water around the property. Populations explode when gutters hold stagnant water, birdbaths are not refreshed, or low spots in the yard collect rainwater. A pest-control technician inspects the property for breeding sites, eliminates standing water sources, applies targeted larvicide to areas that cannot be drained, and treats the yard with a barrier spray to repel adult mosquitoes for several weeks.

16/20

Pool & Spa Technician

3 common problems

Find a pool & spa technician near you
  1. 01

    Pool Water Turned Green

    Green pool water is almost always caused by an algae bloom triggered by low chlorine, poor circulation, or a clogged filter. Left untreated, algae can stain surfaces, damage equipment, and make the pool unsafe for swimming. A pool technician tests the water chemistry, shock-treats the pool, brushes and vacuums algae deposits, and balances pH and sanitizer levels to restore clear water.

  2. 02

    Pool Pump Not Running

    When the pool pump stops running, water circulation and filtration halt completely, allowing bacteria and algae to multiply within hours. The cause may be a tripped breaker, a burned-out motor capacitor, a seized impeller, or a failed motor winding. A pool technician diagnoses the electrical and mechanical fault, replaces worn components such as the capacitor, seal, or motor, and verifies the pump restores proper flow and pressure.

  3. 03

    Pool Liner Tearing

    A torn or punctured vinyl pool liner causes steady water loss, undermines the pool deck as saturated soil shifts, and allows algae to grow behind the liner where it cannot be treated. Tears occur from age-related brittleness, sharp objects on the pool floor, chemical imbalances that degrade the vinyl, or ice damage during winter. A pool and spa technician locates the tear with dye testing, patches small punctures underwater, or measures and installs a full replacement liner when the damage is too extensive to repair.

17/20

Smart Home Installer

3 common problems

Find a smart home installer near you
  1. 01

    Smart Lock Not Responding

    A smart lock that stops responding to the app, keypad, or voice commands can leave you locked out or, worse, unable to secure your home. Common causes include dead batteries, a lost Bluetooth or Wi-Fi connection, firmware glitches, or a misaligned deadbolt. A smart-home installer diagnoses connectivity and hardware issues, updates firmware, recalibrates the lock mechanism, and ensures backup access methods work reliably.

  2. 02

    Wi-Fi Dead Zones in House

    Rooms or areas with weak or nonexistent Wi-Fi signal cause smart-home devices to disconnect, video calls to drop, and streaming to buffer constantly. Dead zones are typically caused by thick walls, long distances from the router, or interference from neighboring networks and appliances. A smart-home installer performs a wireless site survey, designs optimal access-point placement, installs a mesh Wi-Fi system or additional access points, and verifies full-home coverage for all connected devices.

  3. 03

    Smart Thermostat Wi-Fi Issues

    A smart thermostat that repeatedly loses its Wi-Fi connection cannot be controlled remotely, stops following scheduled programs, and loses energy-saving features such as geofencing and learning algorithms. Disconnections are commonly caused by the thermostat being too far from the router, interference from thick walls or other 2.4 GHz devices, outdated firmware, or an incompatible router configuration. A smart-home installer diagnoses the connectivity failure, updates the thermostat firmware, adjusts the router channel or band settings, and if needed installs a Wi-Fi extender or mesh node near the thermostat to ensure a stable connection.

18/20

Appliance Repair Technician

1 common problems

Find an appliance repair technician near you
  1. 01

    Dryer Not Heating

    A dryer that tumbles but produces no heat leaves clothes damp after a full cycle and forces repeated runs that waste energy. The most common causes are a blown thermal fuse, a faulty heating element, a defective gas igniter, or a clogged dryer vent restricting airflow. An appliance-repair technician tests the thermal fuse, heating element, thermostat, and igniter, replaces the failed part, and verifies the vent path is clear so the dryer reaches proper operating temperature again.

19/20

Concrete Mason

1 common problems

Find a concrete mason near you
  1. 01

    Concrete Spalling

    Spalling is the flaking, chipping, or peeling of a concrete surface that exposes the rough aggregate underneath and worsens quickly once it starts. It is typically caused by freeze-thaw cycles forcing moisture expansion inside the slab, deicing salts accelerating surface breakdown, or poor finishing during the original pour. A concrete mason grinds away the loose material, applies a bonding agent, resurfaces the area with a polymer-modified overlay, and seals the finished surface to prevent future moisture intrusion.

20/20

Foundation Specialist

1 common problems

Find a foundation specialist near you
  1. 01

    Foundation Wall Bowing

    A bowing or inward-leaning basement wall indicates serious lateral pressure from water-saturated soil, expansive clay, or frost heave pushing against the foundation. Left unaddressed the wall can crack, shift further inward, and ultimately collapse, compromising the structural integrity of the entire home. A foundation specialist measures the degree of deflection, installs carbon-fiber straps, steel I-beams, or wall anchors to stabilize the wall, and addresses the exterior drainage issues that caused the pressure buildup.

FAQ

Common questions

How do I know which trade to call?+

Use the symptom diagnostic above, or find your problem in the list below. We'll tell you the right specialist (plumber, electrician, HVAC tech, roofer, handyman, etc.) and what to expect.

How much does a service call cost?+

Most service calls run $75–$150 just to diagnose, with repairs billed separately. Each problem page includes a cost range and links to a detailed price guide for that trade.

Should I try to fix it myself first?+

For anything involving gas, water under pressure, electrical panels, or structural elements — call a licensed pro. DIY mistakes on these systems are expensive and dangerous. Cosmetic and minor issues are often safe to attempt.

Is HireLocal free to use?+

Yes. The diagnostic, problem library, cost guides, and trade matching are all free with no signup. You only pay the professional you choose to hire.

How fast can someone come out?+

Emergency trades (plumbing leaks, no heat, electrical hazards) typically respond same-day. Non-urgent visits are usually scheduled within 1–3 days depending on local availability.

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