Leaking pipe
moderate 30–90 min
Tools: adjustable wrench, bucket, towels, flashlight, pipe repair clamp or self-fusing silicone tape · Materials: epoxy putty (for a pinhole), replacement compression fitting (if a joint is weeping)
Steps
- Close the nearest shut-off valve, or the main valve where the supply enters the house, and open a tap below the leak to drain the line.
- Dry the pipe and find the exact source — a weeping joint, a pinhole, or a crack. Mark it with tape.
- For a pinhole or short crack, wrap a self-fusing silicone tape tightly over the spot with 50 % overlap, or fit a pipe repair clamp centred on the hole.
- For a weeping compression joint, hold the fitting body with one wrench and tighten the nut a quarter turn with the other; do not over-tighten.
- Open the valve slowly, watch the repair for ten minutes, then check again after an hour.
- Wipe up the water and run a fan on any wet drywall or flooring for at least 24 hours.
Stop and call a pro if
- the pipe is corroded green or brown along its length — patching one spot will move the leak next door
- the leak is inside a wall or ceiling and you cannot see where the water starts
- water has reached electrical outlets, a panel, or light fittings
- the pipe is the main supply line or a gas line
What a pro does that you can't
A plumber replaces the damaged section rather than patching it, pressure-tests the line, and can trace a hidden leak with a moisture meter or thermal camera before opening walls.
DIY cost: $10–35 in tape, clamp or putty