Plumbing Services

Plumbers handle repairs, installations, and emergencies. Licensed pros typically complete 4–5 years of training. Compare real rates and reviews from neighbors, then request free quotes.

Emergency plumbers are available for urgent repairs and after-hours callouts. Compare local emergency plumbers, see real response times and reviews, and request a free quote in minutes.

Professional drain cleaning and clog removal. Compare local specialists with real reviews and request free quotes.

Water heater repair and installation from local technicians. Compare real rates and reviews and request free quotes.

Tankless water heater installation from local plumbers — endless hot water and lower utility bills. Compare quotes and reviews.

Water softener installation. Reduce hard-water scale, protect appliances, and improve laundry and skin. Compare local plumbers.

Sump pump installation and replacement from local plumbers. Keep basements dry and protect against flooding. Compare quotes.

Whole-house water filtration system installation. Cleaner water from every tap. Compare local pros and request free quotes.

Sewer line camera inspection from local plumbers. Diagnose blockages and breaks before they flood. Compare quotes.

Hydro jetting — high-pressure water cleaning that clears tough sewer-line clogs. Compare local plumbers and request quotes.

A leaking pipe can cause water damage to walls, floors, and ceilings if left unchecked. Even a small drip wastes water and raises your utility bill. A licensed plumber can locate the leak, assess the damage, and repair or replace the affected section.

A clogged drain causes water to back up in sinks, tubs, or showers, making daily routines frustrating. Persistent clogs can indicate a deeper blockage in the main line. A drain-cleaning specialist can clear the obstruction and inspect the line to prevent future issues.

Losing hot water is uncomfortable and can point to a failing water heater, a broken thermostat, or a sediment buildup in the tank. A plumber who specializes in water heaters can diagnose the cause and restore your hot water quickly.

A running toilet wastes hundreds of gallons of water per day and keeps refilling long after you flush. The culprit is usually a worn flapper valve, a faulty fill valve, or an incorrect float level. A plumber can fix it quickly and stop the waste.

A dripping faucet is more than an annoyance — it can waste thousands of gallons a year and signal worn-out washers, O-rings, or cartridge seals. A plumber can replace the internal components and stop the drip for good.

Frozen pipes occur when water inside supply lines freezes during cold weather, blocking water flow and potentially causing the pipe to burst. A burst pipe can release gallons of water per minute, leading to catastrophic flooding and structural damage. Call an emergency plumber immediately to safely thaw the pipes and inspect for cracks before restoring water flow.

Low water pressure makes it difficult to shower, wash dishes, or run appliances efficiently. The cause can range from mineral buildup in pipes to a failing pressure regulator or a hidden leak in the supply line. A professional plumber can diagnose the root cause, clean or replace affected components, and restore normal water pressure throughout your home.

A toilet that refuses to flush properly is both inconvenient and unsanitary, often pointing to a worn flapper, broken chain, or clog deep in the drain line. Repeated failed flushes can cause sewage backup and water damage to your bathroom floor. A licensed plumber can quickly identify whether the issue is in the tank mechanism or the drain and get your toilet working reliably again.

A rotten-egg or sulfur smell inside your home usually means sewer gas is escaping through a dried-out trap, cracked drain pipe, or failing wax ring on a toilet. Sewer gas contains methane and hydrogen sulfide, which are unpleasant and potentially hazardous in high concentrations. A licensed plumber can locate the source, restore trap seals, replace damaged components, and ensure your venting system is working properly.

Brown, yellow, or rusty water coming from your taps can indicate corroding pipes, sediment buildup in the water heater, or issues with the municipal supply. While sometimes temporary after utility work, persistent discoloration may signal galvanized pipes deteriorating from the inside — a problem that worsens over time and can affect water quality and pressure. A plumber can diagnose whether the issue is in your home's plumbing or the supply side and recommend repair or repiping.

A water heater leaking from the bottom, top, or pipe connections can quickly cause significant water damage to floors, walls, and belongings. Leaks may stem from a corroded tank, a failing pressure relief valve, or loose fittings. Because water heaters involve high temperatures and potential electrical or gas connections, a licensed plumber should diagnose and repair the issue promptly.

A sewer backup pushes wastewater back into your home through drains, toilets, or basement floor drains. It poses serious health risks from bacteria and can cause extensive water damage. A licensed plumber can locate the blockage, clear the main sewer line, and recommend preventive measures like backflow valves.

Basement flooding can destroy stored belongings, damage flooring and drywall, and create conditions for mold growth within 24–48 hours. Common causes include a failed sump pump, foundation cracks, clogged floor drains, or heavy rain overwhelming exterior drainage. A licensed plumber can identify the water source, clear drains, repair or install a sump pump, and recommend waterproofing solutions to prevent future flooding.

Banging, clanking, or rattling pipes — often called water hammer — happen when water flow is suddenly stopped and the momentum creates a shockwave in the plumbing. This can loosen joints, damage valves, and eventually cause leaks. Other pipe noises include whistling from partially closed valves or humming from high water pressure. A plumber can install water hammer arrestors, secure loose pipes, adjust pressure regulators, and replace worn valves to eliminate the noise.

A jammed garbage disposal hums but doesn't spin, or it stops responding entirely. Common causes include hard objects like bones or fruit pits wedging the impeller plate, grease buildup caking the grinding chamber, or a tripped internal reset button. If the unit hums loudly without grinding, it's mechanically stuck. If it's completely silent, check the reset button on the bottom and the circuit breaker. A plumber can unjam the disposal, replace worn splash guards or impeller plates, and recommend whether a repair or full replacement makes more financial sense — most disposals last 8–15 years.

A malfunctioning water softener leaves hard-water minerals in your supply, causing limescale buildup on fixtures, spotty dishes, stiff laundry, and reduced appliance lifespan. Common causes include a depleted or bridged salt tank, a stuck brine valve, a failed resin bed, or incorrect timer settings preventing regeneration cycles. A licensed plumber can diagnose whether the issue is mechanical, electrical, or related to water chemistry and restore proper softening.

If your hot water runs out faster than it used to — cutting showers short or leaving you with lukewarm dishwater — the problem is usually inside the water heater. Common culprits include heavy sediment buildup that reduces tank capacity, a failing lower heating element (electric heaters), a broken dip tube that mixes cold water into the hot supply, or a unit that's simply too small for your household's demand. A licensed plumber can diagnose the cause, flush the tank, replace components, or recommend a properly sized replacement.

Standing water at the bottom of a dishwasher after a cycle points to a clogged drain hose, a blocked air gap, or a faulty drain pump. Food debris, grease buildup, and kinked hoses are the most common culprits. A plumber can diagnose whether the issue is in the appliance connection or the kitchen drain line and restore proper drainage.

A toilet that never stops running is more than an annoyance — it can waste 200 gallons of water per day and add hundreds of dollars to your utility bill each quarter. The most common cause is a worn-out flapper valve that no longer seals tightly against the flush valve seat, allowing water to trickle continuously from the tank into the bowl. Other frequent culprits include a faulty fill valve that does not shut off at the correct water level, a waterlogged float that sits too low or too high, or a corroded overflow tube. In older toilets the flush handle linkage can also stretch or tangle, holding the flapper partially open. A licensed plumber can diagnose the exact component at fault, replace the flapper, fill valve, or entire flush assembly, and verify that the tank refills to the manufacturer-recommended line without cycling. Addressing the issue promptly prevents wasted water, avoids potential mold growth from constant condensation on the tank, and restores quiet operation to your bathroom.

A septic tank backup occurs when the underground tank that collects and treats household wastewater becomes full, clogged, or overwhelmed, causing sewage to reverse flow into the home through drains and toilets. This is both a health hazard and a property emergency. Causes include infrequent pumping (most tanks need pumping every 3–5 years), excessive water use overwhelming the drain field, flushing non-biodegradable items, tree root intrusion into pipes, or a failing drain field that can no longer absorb effluent. Warning signs often appear gradually — slow drains throughout the house, sewage odors in the yard near the tank, and soggy patches of unusually green grass over the drain field. A licensed plumber or septic specialist can pump the tank ($300–$600), inspect the system with a camera ($200–$500), clear root intrusions, and assess whether the drain field needs repair or replacement ($3,000–$15,000 for a new field).

A failed sump pump can turn a dry basement into a flooded disaster within hours during heavy rain, potentially causing thousands of dollars in water damage to flooring, drywall, furniture, and stored belongings. The most common causes are a tripped breaker or power outage (the pump runs on electricity and has no backup), a stuck or jammed float switch that prevents the pump from activating, a burned-out motor from age or overwork, or a clogged discharge line that prevents water from exiting. Homeowners often discover the failure only after water has already accumulated several inches deep. Replacing a standard sump pump costs $300–$800 for the unit plus $200–$400 for professional installation, while adding a battery backup system ($200–$600) provides critical protection during power outages. Annual testing — pouring a bucket of water into the pit to confirm the pump activates — is the single best preventive measure.

Water pooling inside the cabinet beneath a kitchen sink is one of the most common plumbing problems in any home, and because it is hidden behind cabinet doors, it often goes unnoticed until mold, warped wood, or a musty smell gives it away. The leak can originate from several points: worn-out compression fittings or corroded shut-off valves on the hot and cold supply lines, loose slip-nut connections on the P-trap or tailpiece, a failed gasket between the sink basin and the drain flange, or cracked seals around a garbage disposal unit. Even a slow drip — just a few drops per minute — can saturate the cabinet floor, delaminate particleboard, and create an ideal environment for mold growth within days. A plumber can typically diagnose and repair the leak in under an hour ($150–$300 for a service call), with parts rarely exceeding $30–$50. Replacing corroded supply lines with braided stainless-steel hoses ($10–$20 each) during the repair is a smart preventive upgrade.

A shower head that drips constantly even when the faucet is turned off is more than an annoyance — it wastes a surprising amount of water (a drip per second adds up to over 3,000 gallons per year) and creates persistent moisture that encourages mold growth, mineral staining, and grout deterioration in the shower enclosure. The most common cause is a worn-out rubber washer or O-ring inside the shower valve that no longer creates a watertight seal when the handle is in the off position. In single-handle cartridge valves, the cartridge itself may be scored or calcified. Mineral buildup (calcium and lime deposits) inside the shower head body or at the threaded connection to the shower arm can also cause water to seep past the seal. A plumber can usually fix the problem in 30–60 minutes by replacing the valve washer, O-ring, or cartridge ($150–$250 for a service call including parts). Homeowners comfortable with basic tools can often replace a washer themselves for under $5 in parts, but cartridge replacement in a wall-mounted valve is best left to a professional to avoid damaging the valve body or in-wall plumbing.

Popping, rumbling, or banging sounds from your water heater usually mean sediment has built up at the bottom of the tank and is being superheated. Left unchecked, sediment buildup reduces efficiency, increases energy bills, and can accelerate tank corrosion. A plumber can flush the tank, inspect the anode rod, and recommend whether repair or replacement is needed.

A sink that drains slowly is more than an annoyance — it usually signals a partial blockage in the drain line from grease, soap scum, hair, or mineral deposits. If ignored, partial clogs become full backups. A drain-cleaning specialist can clear the blockage with a snake or hydro-jetting and check for deeper pipe issues.

A water main break outside or under your home can cause sudden loss of water pressure, soggy patches in the yard, or even flooding in crawl spaces and basements. Because the main line connects your home to the municipal supply, repairs typically require excavation and a licensed plumber familiar with local codes and utility coordination.

A leaking garbage disposal can drip from the top flange, side connections, or the bottom of the unit. Top leaks usually indicate a failing putty seal between the disposal and the sink. Side leaks point to loose hose connections at the dishwasher inlet or drain pipe. Bottom leaks mean the internal seals have worn out and the unit likely needs replacement. Left unaddressed, the constant moisture promotes mold, warps the cabinet floor, and can damage electrical connections. A licensed plumber can diagnose the leak location, reseal or tighten connections, and replace the unit if internal seals have failed.

Tree roots naturally seek moisture and can infiltrate sewer lines through tiny cracks or joints. Once inside, roots expand rapidly, trapping debris and creating blockages that worsen over time. Early signs include slow drains throughout the house and gurgling toilets. If left untreated, roots can collapse the pipe entirely, requiring expensive excavation. A plumber can run a camera inspection to locate root intrusion, clear the line with a mechanical auger or hydro-jetting, and recommend repair options ranging from chemical root treatments to trenchless pipe relining.

A leaking washing machine can damage flooring, subfloor, and nearby walls in a single cycle. Leaks often originate from worn supply hoses, a cracked drain hose, a failed door boot seal (front-loaders), or an overflowing standpipe. Even a small drip during each wash accumulates moisture that promotes mold under the machine and warps laminate or hardwood flooring. A plumber can diagnose the source — whether it's the plumbing connections, the standpipe, or a backflow issue — and repair or replace the affected components. If the leak is internal to the machine (pump, tub seal), the plumber can advise whether a repair or replacement makes more financial sense.

An outdoor faucet (hose bib) that drips wastes hundreds of gallons per month and can cause serious damage. In warm months the water pools near the foundation, promoting erosion and basement moisture. In cold months even a slow drip can freeze and burst the pipe inside the wall — one of the most expensive plumbing failures a homeowner can face. Common causes include a worn washer, corroded valve seat, failed packing nut, or a frost-proof sillcock that wasn't fully closed. A plumber can replace the internal components in under an hour or upgrade the entire hose bib to a modern frost-proof model for long-term protection.

A natural-gas or rotten-egg smell indoors is a potential emergency. Natural gas is odorless by itself — utilities add mercaptan so leaks are detectable. Even a faint whiff can indicate a cracked gas line, a faulty appliance connection, or a failing gas valve. Leave the house immediately without flipping switches or lighting flames, call your gas utility's emergency line from outside, and then contact a licensed plumber or HVAC technician for the repair.

A bathtub that drains sluggishly — leaving inches of standing water after a shower — is almost always caused by a hair-and-soap clog in the drain assembly or P-trap. Over months, hair wraps around the stopper mechanism and binds with soap scum into a dense plug. A simple drain snake or zip-strip tool clears most tub clogs in minutes. If the slow drain persists after clearing the trap, the blockage may be deeper in the branch line or main drain, requiring professional hydro-jetting. A licensed plumber can also inspect for pipe scale buildup or improper venting that causes slow drainage.

Water pooling around the base of a toilet usually means the wax ring seal between the toilet and the floor flange has failed. Every flush pushes a small amount of wastewater past the broken seal and onto the floor, creating a sanitation hazard and potential subfloor damage. Left unrepaired, the moisture rots the plywood subfloor and can even compromise floor joists. A licensed plumber will pull the toilet, inspect the flange, replace the wax ring (or upgrade to a rubber gasket), and re-set the toilet — typically a one-hour repair costing $150–$350.

When a garbage disposal hums but doesn't spin, the impeller is almost always jammed by a piece of food, bone, fruit pit, or stray utensil. The motor is still receiving power but can't turn the flywheel, and if you leave it humming for more than a few seconds it will trip the internal overload protector. First, turn it off at the wall switch. Most disposals have a hex socket on the bottom — insert a 1/4-inch Allen wrench and rock it back and forth to free the jam. Then press the red reset button on the underside. If it spins freely afterward and the obstruction is gone, you're done. If it still hums, the motor bearings may be seized or the start capacitor has failed — both usually mean replacement is more cost-effective than repair. A plumber will replace a standard 1/2 HP unit for $200–$450 including labor. Never put your hand inside the disposal, even when it's off.

When water pressure drops in only one shower while the rest of the house has normal pressure, the problem is almost always isolated to that fixture rather than the home's main supply. The most common culprit is a clogged showerhead — mineral deposits from hard water build up in the small spray holes and on the internal flow restrictor. Unscrew the showerhead and soak it overnight in white vinegar, then scrub the holes with an old toothbrush. If pressure improves but is still weak, the flow restrictor inside (a small plastic disc) may need cleaning or replacing. The next suspect is the shower valve cartridge — these contain small ports that clog with sediment, especially after city water main repairs that stir up debris. Cartridge replacement is a 30-minute job for a plumber and runs $150–$350 including parts. Single-handle thermostatic valves have additional check valves and filters that may need cleaning. If multiple fixtures lose pressure simultaneously, the issue is the main pressure regulator and you need a plumber to test and replace it.

A slab leak is a water or sewer line break beneath your home's concrete foundation. Because the pipe is buried under several inches of concrete and soil, the leak is invisible until secondary symptoms appear: unexplained spikes in the water bill, warm spots on the floor (hot-water line leak), the sound of running water when all fixtures are off, damp carpet or warped flooring over the slab, cracks in walls or baseboards from foundation movement, or mold and mildew smell with no visible source. Left unchecked, a slab leak erodes the soil supporting the foundation, causing differential settlement that cracks walls, jams doors, and can make the home structurally unsafe. Detection requires specialized equipment — electronic amplification, tracer gas, or infrared thermography — which is why DIY detection is rarely successful. Repair options range from spot repair ($500–$2,000, breaking through the slab to fix one section) to rerouting the line through the attic or walls ($2,000–$6,000, bypassing the slab entirely) to full epoxy pipe lining ($4,000–$15,000, coating the interior of existing pipes without excavation). A licensed plumber experienced in slab leak detection and repair is essential — general handymen should not attempt this work.

A leaking dishwasher can damage kitchen flooring, cabinets, and the subfloor beneath them before you notice the problem. Water may pool under the unit, seep forward onto the floor during cycles, or drip from the door seal. Common causes include a worn or cracked door gasket, a loose or damaged supply line connection, a faulty inlet valve, a cracked pump housing, or a clogged drain hose that forces water backward. If the dishwasher is older than 8–10 years and the tub or pump is cracked, replacement is usually more cost-effective than repair. A licensed plumber can diagnose the source, tighten or replace supply and drain connections ($100–$250), replace a door gasket ($50–$150 parts + labor), swap a faulty inlet valve ($150–$300), or advise on replacement. Act fast — even a small dishwasher leak left for weeks can warp the subfloor and encourage mold growth in the enclosed cabinet space.

Water seeping through cracks in basement walls is one of the most common — and most ignored — home problems. Hairline cracks in poured concrete walls are normal as concrete cures and the house settles, but once water finds a path, hydrostatic pressure from saturated soil drives it through relentlessly. A damp streak or mineral deposit (white efflorescence) along a crack means water is actively moving through. Small non-structural cracks can be sealed from the interior with epoxy or polyurethane injection ($300–$800 per crack), which fills the crack through the full wall thickness. If multiple cracks are leaking, the exterior drainage system may be failing — clogged or collapsed footer drains, negative grading pushing water toward the foundation, or missing downspout extensions. A waterproofing contractor can install an interior French drain system with sump pump ($3,000–$8,000) or excavate and waterproof from the outside ($5,000–$15,000 per wall). Wide cracks (over ¼ inch), stair-step cracks in block walls, or cracks that are wider at the top than bottom indicate structural movement — these require a structural engineer's assessment before any waterproofing work.

A toilet that rocks or moves when you sit on it is more than an annoyance — it signals a failing seal between the toilet and the drain pipe, and every rock works the wax ring loose a little more. The wax ring is a thick wax gasket that sits between the toilet horn and the closet flange bolted to the floor; it creates a watertight, gas-tight seal. Once the seal breaks, sewer gas seeps into the bathroom (you'll smell rotten eggs), and dirty water can leak beneath the toilet with every flush, silently soaking the subfloor. Over months, this hidden moisture rots wooden subfloors and can lead to a much more expensive repair. The most common causes are: loose or corroded closet-flange bolts (the simplest fix — just tighten or replace them, $0–$20 in parts), a broken or rusted closet flange that no longer holds the bolts securely ($75–$200 to install a flange repair ring or replace the flange), an uneven floor where the toilet doesn't sit flat (shimming with plastic toilet shims and caulking costs under $30), or a rotted subfloor beneath the flange from a long-term leak ($300–$800 to cut out and replace the damaged section). In every case, the wax ring should be replaced whenever the toilet is pulled — a standard wax ring costs $5–$10, and a premium wax-free gasket runs $15–$30. A licensed plumber can pull the toilet, inspect the flange and subfloor, replace the seal, and reset the toilet in about an hour ($150–$300 for the service call plus parts). Don't delay this repair — the longer a rocking toilet goes unfixed, the greater the risk of subfloor damage, sewer-gas exposure, and a potential sewage leak beneath the floor.

A puddle of water under or around your refrigerator usually points to a blocked defrost drain, a cracked water supply line, or a faulty inlet valve — not necessarily a broken fridge. The defrost drain is a small tube at the back of the freezer compartment that channels melt water into a drip pan underneath the unit; when food particles or ice clog it, water backs up and spills onto the floor. A plumber can clear the drain, inspect the water supply line running from the wall valve to the fridge (a common failure point, especially with older ¼-inch copper lines), and replace the inlet valve if it's dripping. Ignoring the leak risks warped flooring, mold under the appliance, and potential water damage to adjacent cabinets. Repair typically costs $100–$250 for a drain clearing or supply line replacement, versus $500–$2,000+ for water-damaged flooring if left unattended.

A leaking backflow preventer can waste water, cause low pressure, and — if it fails completely — allow contaminated water to flow back into your drinking supply. Most municipalities require annual testing, and a licensed plumber can repair or replace the device to keep your home compliant and safe.

If your water meter keeps spinning even when every faucet, toilet, and appliance is off, you likely have a hidden leak. Underground slab leaks, pinhole corrosion in copper lines, or a silently running toilet flapper can waste thousands of gallons a month and cause structural damage before you ever see a puddle. A licensed plumber can perform a pressure test, use electronic leak detection equipment, and pinpoint the exact location without tearing up your home.

A sagging, paint-bubble on the ceiling that feels soft or squishy is trapped water pooling above the drywall. The source is almost always a plumbing leak, a roof leak, or condensation from HVAC ducts on the floor above. Left alone the bubble will grow, the drywall will collapse, and the water may damage wiring, insulation, and structural framing. A plumber can trace the leak, stop the water source, and coordinate drywall repair to get your ceiling back to normal.

A high-pitched whistling, whining, or foghorn-like sound from the toilet tank usually means the fill valve is deteriorating. As the valve's internal seal wears, water forces through a smaller opening, vibrating the mechanism and producing noise. The sound often occurs right after a flush and can last 30 seconds to several minutes. While not an emergency, a worn fill valve wastes water and the noise will worsen over time. A plumber can replace the fill valve in under an hour, restoring quiet operation and saving water.

Water pooling under your washing machine can damage flooring and subfloor, promote mold growth, and signal a failing pump, hose, or door seal. A plumber or appliance repair technician can pinpoint the source and fix it before it causes water damage to the room below.

An overflowing toilet is a plumbing emergency that can cause immediate water damage to floors, subfloors, and ceilings below. The cause is typically a clog in the drain line or a stuck flapper valve that won't stop the fill cycle. Shut off the supply valve behind the toilet immediately, then call a plumber if a plunger doesn't clear the blockage within a few attempts.

A gas water heater that has lost its pilot light will stop producing hot water. Common causes include a faulty thermocouple, a dirty pilot orifice, or a draft blowing out the flame. While relighting the pilot is sometimes a simple DIY fix, repeated outages indicate a component failure that requires a licensed plumber or gas technician.

Sudden spikes in water pressure can damage pipes, fittings, and appliances like washing machines and dishwashers. You might notice pipes banging, faucets spitting, or the water heater's relief valve dripping. A licensed plumber can test your line pressure, install or adjust a pressure-reducing valve (PRV), and check for a failing expansion tank — the three most common causes of residential pressure surges.