Garage door making loud noise
Tools: socket set or wrench, stepladder, rag, flashlight · Materials: garage-door lubricant (silicone or white lithium spray, not WD-40), nylon rollers if the old ones are steel or worn
Steps
- Disconnect the opener by pulling the release cord with the door closed, then lift the door by hand: a balanced door stays put halfway; one that slams down or flies up has a spring problem — stop there.
- Tighten every nut and bolt on the hinges, track brackets and the opener rail; a rattle is usually a loose bolt.
- Spray the hinges, roller bearings, the spring and the opener's chain or screw drive with garage-door lubricant; wipe the excess.
- Do not lubricate the tracks — clean them with a rag and a little solvent, because grease in the track collects grit and makes rollers skid.
- Inspect the rollers: a wobbling or flattened roller, or a steel one grinding in the track, is the source of grinding; nylon rollers are a quiet upgrade.
- Run the door and listen: a squeal that stopped is dry hinges; a rumble that continues is the opener motor or the rollers.
Stop and call a pro if
- the door is unbalanced, a spring is broken (a gap in the coil) or a cable is frayed — springs are under high tension and injure people
- the popping comes from the spring area
- the door is off its track or one side is higher than the other
What a pro does that you can't
A garage-door technician replaces and tensions springs safely, swaps rollers and cables in one visit, and rebalances the door so the opener stops straining.
DIY cost: $8–15 for lubricant; $30–60 for a set of nylon rollers