Spring Irrigation System Startup Guide

Why spring startup matters

If your irrigation system was winterized (blown out with compressed air or drained), it's been dormant for months. Jumping straight to full pressure without a methodical startup can crack pipes, blow out seals, and damage valves that contracted in the cold. A careful startup catches problems early — before they waste water all season or kill sections of your lawn.

Before you turn the water on

• Walk the entire system — inspect every sprinkler head, valve box, and exposed pipe for visible damage: cracked risers, tilted heads, rodent damage to wiring, or valve boxes filled with dirt or water
• Check the backflow preventer — look for cracks in the body, damaged test ports, or missing caps. Backflow devices are required by code in most areas and protect your drinking water
• Inspect the controller — replace the backup battery (usually a 9V), check that the date/time are correct, and review your programmed schedules. Spring watering needs are very different from summer
• Clear heads and nozzles — remove any debris, dirt, or grass clippings from around sprinkler heads so they pop up freely

Step-by-step startup procedure

• Open the main valve slowly — turn it just ¼ to ½ open and wait 5 minutes. This lets water fill the pipes gradually without creating a pressure surge (water hammer) that can crack fittings
• Once pressure stabilizes, open fully — after 5 minutes with no sounds of rushing or hammering, open the valve the rest of the way
• Run each zone manually — at the controller, activate one zone at a time for 3–5 minutes. Walk to each zone while it's running and check every head for: proper pop-up height, correct spray pattern, leaks at the base, and geysers from broken risers
• Adjust heads — realign any heads that shifted over winter. Clean or replace clogged nozzles. Replace broken heads ($3–$10 each from any hardware store)
• Check for underground leaks — if a zone shows noticeably low pressure or a section of lawn is soggy without visible spray, there may be a cracked pipe underground. Mark the area for professional repair
• Update the watering schedule — spring lawns need less water than summer. Start with 2–3 days per week, 15–20 minutes per zone, and adjust based on rainfall. Morning watering (4–8 AM) minimizes evaporation and disease

Common spring problems and fixes

• Head won't pop up — dirt in the riser mechanism. Pull the head, flush the body with water, and reinstall. If the spring is broken, replace the head ($5–$12)
• Geyser from a head location — the riser or body cracked during freezing. Replace the head and riser fitting
• Valve won't open — check the solenoid connection, clean the valve diaphragm, or replace the solenoid ($10–$20). If the valve body is cracked, the entire valve needs replacement ($20–$50 for parts)
• Low pressure on one zone — could be a partially closed valve, a clogged filter, or an underground pipe leak. Try cleaning the valve first; if pressure doesn't improve, call a professional

When to call a professional

Call a landscaper or irrigation specialist if you find underground leaks (soggy areas with no visible cause), need the backflow preventer tested and certified (required annually in many cities), have multiple broken valves, or want to add zones or smart-controller upgrades. Professional spring startup services typically cost $75–$150 and include a full system inspection, head adjustments, and basic repairs — well worth it for larger systems with 6+ zones.