Dryer taking too long to dry clothes
Tools: screwdriver, vacuum with a crevice tool, dryer vent brush kit, flashlight · Materials: rigid or semi-rigid metal duct to replace a foil or plastic hose, foil tape
Steps
- Dry a small load first: if a half load comes out damp too, the dryer is not simply overloaded.
- Clean the lint screen and wash it with soap and a brush — fabric-softener film blocks airflow even when the screen looks clean.
- Go outside while the dryer runs and hold your hand at the vent cap: strong warm air means the duct is clear; a weak breeze or none means it is blocked.
- Pull the dryer out and inspect the hose: replace any foil, plastic or crushed hose with smooth metal duct and keep the run as short and straight as you can.
- Brush the duct from the wall to the outside cap with a vent brush kit, and free the cap's flap or screen of lint.
- Check the drum seal for gaps by holding a tissue at the door edge while the dryer runs; escaping air means the felt seal is worn.
Stop and call a pro if
- the drum tumbles but the air never gets warm — the heating element, igniter or thermal fuse has failed
- the dryer is gas and the flame is yellow, sooty or you smell gas
- airflow is strong at the vent and the load is still damp after a second cycle
What a pro does that you can't
An appliance technician tests the element, thermostats and thermal fuse with a meter, replaces worn drum seals, and measures the duct run against the maker's limit — long or elbow-heavy runs need rerouting, not more cleaning.
DIY cost: $15–40 for a vent brush kit and metal duct