Dishwasher door not latching
Tools: Torx and Phillips screwdrivers, flashlight, level · Materials: door latch assembly for the model, door gasket if torn
Steps
- Pull out both racks and check nothing is in the way: a mispositioned upper rack, a tall pan handle or a fallen utensil stops the door from closing the last centimetre.
- Look at the latch in the top edge of the door and the strike in the tub: a bent strike or a latch that does not spring back means the latch assembly has worn.
- Put a level on the open door; a dishwasher that has dropped at the front puts the latch out of line, and turning the front feet out raises it back.
- Check the door gasket for a fold or a torn section that pushes the door back open, and reseat or replace it.
- With the dishwasher unplugged, remove the inner door screws to lift the front panel and swap the latch assembly — two screws and a wiring plug on most models.
- Close firmly and listen for a solid click; run a short cycle to confirm it starts.
Stop and call a pro if
- the dishwasher is hard-wired and you would need to work inside the control panel with power present
- the door hinges are broken or the door drops when opened
- a new latch fits and the 'door open' error remains — the door switch or the control board is at fault
What a pro does that you can't
An appliance technician replaces the door switch and tests the control board, and rehangs a door whose hinge springs or cables have failed.
DIY cost: $20–50 for a latch assembly