Dryer overheating
Tools: screwdriver, vacuum with a crevice tool, dryer vent brush kit, meat or oven thermometer (optional) · Materials: smooth metal duct and clamps if the hose is foil or plastic
Steps
- Stop using the dryer until the vent is cleared; a dryer that trips its thermal fuse is telling you the air cannot get out.
- Clean the lint screen and vacuum the slot beneath it, then pull the machine out and remove the hose from the wall and the dryer.
- Vacuum the dryer's outlet and the wall duct, run a vent brush through to the outside, and clear the exterior cap.
- Refit with smooth metal duct, no kinks, and no more than two elbows; every bend costs airflow.
- Run an empty cycle and hold a thermometer in the airstream at the outside cap after ten minutes — around 50–60 °C (125–135 °F) is normal for a clear line.
- If the dryer shut itself off before you cleaned it, it may need a new thermal fuse before it will heat again — that is a $10 part but sits behind the rear panel.
Stop and call a pro if
- the dryer still runs hot with a clear, short vent — the cycling or high-limit thermostat has failed
- clothes come out scorched or you saw a spark or smelled plastic
- the dryer is gas and the burner stays lit between cycles
- the thermal fuse has blown more than once
What a pro does that you can't
An appliance technician replaces the thermal fuse and tests the cycling thermostat, high-limit switch and element for a short; on a gas dryer they check the valve coils, which can stick open and overheat the drum.
DIY cost: $15–40 for a vent brush kit and metal duct