Concrete Patio Scaling and Flaking
Tools: pressure washer, stiff broom, wire brush, margin trowel and steel float, bucket and drill mixer, squeegee · Materials: polymer-modified concrete resurfacer, bonding primer if the resurfacer requires it, penetrating siloxane concrete sealer
Steps
- Pressure-wash the slab and scrape every loose flake with a wire brush until the surface is sound; resurfacer over loose concrete peels within a season.
- Check the depth: scaling shallower than about 1 cm (⅜ inch) can be resurfaced; deeper pits or exposed stone across most of the slab means the top layer is gone.
- Dampen the slab (no standing water), mix the resurfacer to the bag's consistency, and spread a thin coat with a squeegee, working in sections you can finish in ten minutes.
- Broom-finish for grip while it is still wet, keep foot traffic off for a day, and mist it for the first 24 hours in hot weather.
- After a month, apply a penetrating siloxane sealer so water stays out of the surface — this is what stops the next freeze-thaw cycle.
- Use sand, not salt, for ice for the first two winters; deicing salts are what scaled the slab.
Stop and call a pro if
- the scaling is deeper than 1 cm (⅜ inch) or exposes reinforcing steel
- cracks run through the slab or sections have sunk — resurfacing will not hold on a moving slab
- the area is larger than about 20 m² (200 sq ft) — a bagged resurfacer sets faster than one person can spread
What a pro does that you can't
A concrete contractor grinds the slab, applies a bonded overlay with the right air-entrainment, or replaces a slab that has lost its top layer, and specifies a mix that will not scale again.
DIY cost: $60–200 in resurfacer and sealer