Spring Window and Door Weatherproofing Guide
Inspect and weatherproof windows and doors after winter to improve energy efficiency, reduce drafts, and prevent water intrusion before summer storms.
Why spring weatherproofing matters
Winter's freezing temperatures, wind, and moisture take a heavy toll on window and door seals. Caulk cracks and shrinks, weatherstripping compresses and tears, and glazing putty on older windows dries out and falls away. Spring is the ideal time to address these issues: temperatures are warm enough for caulk to cure properly, and you'll solve problems before summer's cooling bills arrive and before spring storms drive rain through gaps.
Window inspection checklist
- Check exterior caulk — inspect the caulk bead where the window frame meets the siding. Look for cracks, gaps, peeling, or sections that have pulled away entirely. Remove failed caulk and apply fresh exterior-grade silicone or polyurethane caulk
- Inspect weatherstripping — open each window and examine the weatherstripping on the sash and frame. Compressed, torn, or missing weatherstripping allows air and water infiltration. Most types (adhesive foam, V-strip, felt) are inexpensive and easy to replace
- Test for drafts — on a windy day, hold a lit incense stick or candle near the window edges. Flickering indicates air movement through gaps. Mark problem areas for sealing
- Check double-pane seal integrity — foggy or hazy appearance between panes means the insulating seal has failed. The window won't insulate properly until the glass unit is replaced (not the whole window — just the insulated glass unit, or IGU)
- Inspect glazing putty — on older single-pane windows, check the putty holding the glass in the frame. Cracked or missing putty lets water reach the wood sash, causing rot. Re-glaze with new putty or switch to glazing caulk for easier application
- Test operation — every window should open, close, and lock smoothly. Sticky operation often means the sash needs cleaning and lubrication (silicone spray on the tracks), or the hardware needs adjustment
Door inspection checklist
- Check the door sweep — look at the bottom of exterior doors. If you see daylight under a closed door, the sweep is worn or missing. Replace it — a gap under a door can let in as much air as a 3-inch hole in the wall
- Inspect weatherstripping around the frame — close the door and check for daylight around the edges. Replace any weatherstripping that is compressed, cracked, or no longer making full contact with the door
- Check the threshold — a worn or damaged threshold creates a gap at the bottom of the door. Adjustable thresholds can be raised; fixed thresholds may need replacement
- Examine exterior caulk — caulk around the door frame exterior should be continuous and flexible. Re-caulk any gaps
- Test the strike plate and latch — a door that doesn't latch firmly doesn't compress the weatherstripping properly, leaving gaps. Adjust the strike plate if needed
DIY vs professional help
Most weatherproofing tasks are DIY-friendly: caulking, replacing weatherstripping, and installing door sweeps require minimal tools and skill. Consider hiring a handyman when:
- Multiple windows need re-glazing (time-consuming with putty)
- Windows or doors are severely out of alignment or won't close properly
- Failed insulated glass units need replacement
- Exterior caulking requires ladder work on upper floors
- Door frames show signs of rot and need repair before weatherproofing
A handyman typically charges $100–$300 for a full-house weatherproofing visit — far less than the energy savings you'll gain. On HireLocal, compare verified handymen in your area for spring weatherproofing quotes.