High radon levels in basement
Tools: radon test kit (short-term, then long-term), caulk gun, flashlight · Materials: polyurethane sealant for slab and wall cracks, an airtight sump cover with a gasket, weatherstripping for the basement door
Steps
- Confirm with a second test — a long-term kit over 90 days on the lowest lived-in level, or a continuous monitor — before spending money; single short tests swing with the weather.
- Seal what you can see: caulk the floor-to-wall joint, slab cracks and pipe penetrations, and fit a gasketed airtight cover on the sump pit; this reduces radon modestly and is required for a mitigation system anyway.
- Do not rely on opening windows — it lowers the reading for a day and changes nothing.
- Keep the basement door closed and weatherstripped so basement air is not drawn upstairs by the furnace.
- Get quotes for sub-slab depressurization — a pipe through the slab to a fan venting above the roof — which is the fix that brings levels down reliably.
- Retest 30 days after any work and every two years afterwards, or after finishing the basement.
Stop and call a pro if
- always for the mitigation system itself: the fan and vent are installed by a certified radon mitigator
- the reading is over 8 pCi/L (300 Bq/m³) — act now, sealing alone will not get you there
- the house has a crawl space, which needs a membrane and a different system design
Rules in the US: Many states license radon mitigators; the EPA action level is 4 pCi/L, and a mitigation system usually costs $800–$2,500.
Rules in the Netherlands: Nederlandse niveaus zijn meestal laag; het RIVM-referentieniveau is 100 Bq/m³ — meet met een gecertificeerde detector voordat je maatregelen neemt.
What a pro does that you can't
A certified radon mitigator installs a sub-slab depressurization system with a fan and roof vent, sizes it to the slab, and tests to prove the level is below the action limit.
DIY cost: $15–40 for test kits; $20–60 in sealant and a sump cover