Mold growing in attic
Tools: N95 or P100 respirator, goggles and gloves, flashlight, spray bottle, scrub brush, moisture meter (optional), tape measure · Materials: detergent or a borate-based mould cleaner, rigid duct and clamps to extend a vent through the roof or wall, soffit baffles, expanding foam
Steps
- Measure the affected area: scattered spots under a few square metres you can treat; more than about 1 m² (10 sq ft) of dense growth is remediation work.
- Find the moisture source before cleaning: a bathroom fan or dryer duct ending in the attic, insulation stuffed into the soffit vents, a missing ridge vent, or a stain under a roof penetration.
- Fix the source first — extend the fan duct outside through a roof or gable cap, clear the soffits with baffles, and foam the ceiling air leaks that carry moist air up.
- Wearing a respirator and goggles, spray the stained sheathing with a detergent or borate solution, scrub, and wipe; do not use bleach on wood, it stays wet and does not reach the roots.
- Run a fan through the attic for a day and check the wood with a moisture meter — it should read under 15 % before you close it up.
- Check again after the next cold snap: no frost on the nails and no new spots means the ventilation is working.
Stop and call a pro if
- the growth is dense, black and covers more than a square metre or two
- anyone in the house has asthma or a compromised immune system
- the roof sheathing is soft, delaminated or stained through — a roof leak is active
- the attic has vermiculite insulation, which may contain asbestos and must not be disturbed
What a pro does that you can't
A mould remediation company removes heavy growth under containment and treats the wood, and a roofer or insulation contractor fixes the ventilation and vent terminations so it does not return.
DIY cost: $30–80 in cleaner, ducting and baffles