Question 1

What specifically needs doing — list everything?

Accepted Answer

A handyman half-day is much cheaper than two callouts. List every small task (door rattling, shelf to mount, light to swap) so they can quote one combined visit.

Question 2

Are materials needed? Will you supply or should they?

Accepted Answer

Most handymen don't carry building supplies. Decide who's buying the screws, paint, brackets, etc. — and confirm in writing.

Question 3

Can you send photos of each item?

Accepted Answer

A photo per task lets the handyman judge complexity and bring the right tools first time.

Question 4

Are there any access constraints (high ceilings, narrow stairs)?

Accepted Answer

Mention anything that affects equipment — a tall ladder, wide ramp, or sensitive flooring all change the workday.

Question 5

Are there things the pro shouldn't touch?

Accepted Answer

Heirloom furniture, an active fish tank, a sleeping baby's room — say so upfront to avoid awkward surprises.

Question 6

How much does drywall repair cost in Seattle?

Accepted Answer

Drywall repair costs in Seattle, WA vary by hole size and number. Compare local handymen and drywall pros on HireLocal and get free quotes.

Question 7

Who does drywall repair in WA?

Accepted Answer

Handymen and drywall specialists do patches and finish work. Every pro on HireLocal is local. Browse drywall repair in Seattle, WA and get free quotes.

Question 8

What is a Nail pop?

Accepted Answer

A nail pop is a common drywall defect where a nail or screw head pushes through the surface of the drywall, creating a small circular bump, crack, or crescent-shaped blemish on the wall or ceiling. This occurs when the wood framing member behind the drywall shrinks as it dries (lumber used in construction typically starts at 15–19% moisture content and dries to 8–12% over the first 1–3 years), causing the framing to pull away from the drywall while the fastener stays in place — effectively pushing it through the surface compound. Nail pops can also result from framing members that were slightly bowed during installation, foundation settling that shifts framing, vibration from heavy traffic or construction, or improperly driven fasteners that did not fully seat into the stud. They are especially common in new construction homes during the first 1–2 years as the building settles and lumber acclimates. While nail pops are almost always cosmetic and do not indicate structural problems, they are unsightly and will worsen over time if not repaired. The fix is straightforward: drive a new drywall screw 1–2 inches above or below the popped fastener (ensuring it bites firmly into the stud), remove or reset the original nail, apply 2–3 thin coats of joint compound (allowing each to dry and sanding between coats), prime, and paint. Materials cost under $5 and a DIY repair takes 20–30 minutes per pop plus drying time. Professional drywall repair for multiple nail pops typically costs $75–$150 per visit plus $5–$15 per pop. Many new-home builders include nail pop repair as part of their 1-year warranty walkthrough.

Question 9

What is a Joint compound (drywall mud)?

Accepted Answer

Joint compound — commonly called drywall mud — is a white paste used to cover seams between drywall panels, fill nail/screw holes, and create a smooth, paintable surface. There are three main types: taping compound (strong adhesion for embedding paper tape over joints), topping compound (lighter and easier to sand for final coats), and all-purpose compound (a compromise that works for every step). Pre-mixed compound comes in buckets ready to use; setting-type compound (often called hot mud) comes as a powder mixed with water and hardens chemically rather than by drying, making it useful for deep fills and faster turnaround. A standard drywall repair involves 2–3 coats of compound with sanding between each coat. Professional finishers use different grit sandpaper (120–150 grit for intermediate coats, 220 grit for the final coat) and often apply compound with increasingly wider knives (6", 10", 12") to feather edges seamlessly. Joint compound costs $7–$15 per gallon for pre-mixed and $10–$25 per bag for setting-type. For DIY drywall repairs, all-purpose compound is the easiest choice.

Question 10

What is a Lath and plaster?

Accepted Answer

Lath and plaster is the wall and ceiling construction method used in homes built before about 1940, before drywall (gypsum board) became standard. Thin wood strips called "lath" — usually 1¼ inches wide and ¼ inch thick — were nailed horizontally to wall studs with small gaps between them. Wet plaster was then troweled onto the lath; the plaster oozed through the gaps and formed "keys" on the back side that locked the plaster in place once it dried. The result is a wall that's noticeably thicker, harder, and more soundproof than modern drywall. The downside is that repairs are tricky: drilling causes the brittle plaster to crack, hanging anything heavy requires finding the studs (or using toggle bolts that can crumble the plaster), and patching damaged areas requires either matching new plaster or carefully patching with drywall and joint compound. When the plaster keys fail (often from water damage or age), entire sections can detach from the lath and need re-attachment with plaster washers or full replacement. Most modern handymen and drywall contractors can patch lath-and-plaster walls, but extensive restoration work in a historic home should go to a specialty plaster contractor.

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